I ask because I often need things cast that aren't things any store is going to carry...random things either due to breakage or for unique custom work...
Is casting expensive to get into?
- Thread starter G.I.*EDDIE
- Start date
Probably depends on the level of casting. I don't do nearly as much as the guys who do it for a living; I'm just casting for myself.
I use a pressure pot and silicone molds. The pot had to be modified, so that was an up-front cost. The resin I recently bought is about $130 for a gallon. Silicone was $88. (While I don't make my own molds yet, I do pay for the stuff to make them)
Trial sizes are less, and from what I understand you can get materials to make smaller molds for less.
I'm sure that one of the guys who does this for a living will have more info.
I use a pressure pot and silicone molds. The pot had to be modified, so that was an up-front cost. The resin I recently bought is about $130 for a gallon. Silicone was $88. (While I don't make my own molds yet, I do pay for the stuff to make them)
Trial sizes are less, and from what I understand you can get materials to make smaller molds for less.
I'm sure that one of the guys who does this for a living will have more info.
I bought a simple casting kit from my hobby shop to make gun pieces for the star wars miniatures game. They were so easy and well done, I sold them for $5 each, making my money back from the kit as well as leaving plenty left over for myself and friends.
It does not have to be expensive to start, but the most basic set up will have many limitations as to what types of pieces will turn out well. This is not a bad thing. Start with the basic kits and as you become more proficient upgrade your materials and equipment accordingly.
Small flat items like hand guns, blasters, etc. are perfect to start with. As you master these you will gain more insight in mold-making, cutting the molds, and running them.
Watch the many tutorials out there to know what to expect to get a basic idea to start. SWG has put together some great ones. Don't worry if it seems overwhelming at first. Just focus on mastering the simple molds first. After you feel comfortable with the basics, re-watch the tutorials......you will find many of the tips you missed, skimmed over, or did not understand much more helpful after trying it a few times yourself.
Have realistic expectations. Don't try to cast up 10 complete custom figures the first go at it. Most starter resin kits are not the highest quality, so plan accordingly. If you have dio pieces that you use a lot and could be cast in plaster, use these to start. You won't need the pressure pot for these. Good examples would be the PTE barrels, boxes, etc. Basic items that do not have mold locks and would allow large cuts to vent the bubbles.
Small flat items like hand guns, blasters, etc. are perfect to start with. As you master these you will gain more insight in mold-making, cutting the molds, and running them.
Watch the many tutorials out there to know what to expect to get a basic idea to start. SWG has put together some great ones. Don't worry if it seems overwhelming at first. Just focus on mastering the simple molds first. After you feel comfortable with the basics, re-watch the tutorials......you will find many of the tips you missed, skimmed over, or did not understand much more helpful after trying it a few times yourself.
Have realistic expectations. Don't try to cast up 10 complete custom figures the first go at it. Most starter resin kits are not the highest quality, so plan accordingly. If you have dio pieces that you use a lot and could be cast in plaster, use these to start. You won't need the pressure pot for these. Good examples would be the PTE barrels, boxes, etc. Basic items that do not have mold locks and would allow large cuts to vent the bubbles.
Keep on mind, for complex pieces you will eventually need a nice set-up and materials that will require an investment. So for an occasional piece here and there is is going to be expensive. But the first project you have where the base part is rare or unique, it will be worth it. But to find out if you will require that level of commitment test it out with the most simplest set-up you can. It can be a messy time consuming process and not everyone will stick with it long enough to become good at it. Not everyone starts with resin either. It is far more economical to start with plaster casts. Hardcore miniaturists have an advantage as they already have loads of experience with making dio sets from plaster molds. If you happen to be into miniatures, my suggestion would be to first try plaster casting castle and dungeon tiles. The most basic concepts can be formed in this medium (vents, how viscosity effects details, what can be accomplished without pressure, working times, how mixing ratios effect the finished product, etc.).
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Well that's a lot of great info above and beyond what I was expecting to hear...thanks DW!...
I don't have any intention of making a business out of it...I just want to be able to make the random one-off things I occationally need...an extra wheel for a TF custom for example...
But if it's something that's gonna break the bank for the occational one-off piece, maybe I shouldn't bother...
I don't have any intention of making a business out of it...I just want to be able to make the random one-off things I occationally need...an extra wheel for a TF custom for example...
But if it's something that's gonna break the bank for the occational one-off piece, maybe I shouldn't bother...
Every customizer can benefit from the skill set, so if it something you are ready to try, go for it. Just make smart educated choices at the start to minimize frustration and maximize what you get out of it. If your budget only allows for a starter set with no pressure pot, simply pick projects that will work best for that medium. Trying to make a starter kit work for everything would set you up for disappointment. Knowing it will work well for certain items, run those items first. Bulk dio items will give you great results and satisfaction. Then when you are ready to get the more expensive stuff you will have the experience to know exactly what you need to accomplish your goal in the most economical way.
I think I'll go the starter route and see how I do with that then...
Are hobby stores like Hobby Lobby a good place to get that kinda thing or is picking something up online a better idea?
Maybe I should also ask what a good starter kit/set would be...
Are hobby stores like Hobby Lobby a good place to get that kinda thing or is picking something up online a better idea?
Maybe I should also ask what a good starter kit/set would be...
Doesn't seem like it would be. ......
That's the only kind of casting I want to get into.
What I would suggest is to get a pressure pot as it forces the resin into the mold more reducing the amount of air bubbles. However DO NOT get an aluminum pressure pot. I tried aluminum not knowing that you need a STAINLESS STEEL pressure pot, and it literally blew up in my face.
parts:
lets go from most to least expensive
Stainless Steel Pressure pot:
You can get one from Amazon for as little as $43.99 + shipping. About $60
http://www.amazon.com/Presto-6-Quar...=8-1&keywords=stainless+steel+pressure+cooker
pressure gauge:
You can get this at Walmart for $6.77
tire valve stem:
You can get the TR 413 tire valve stems for $2.97
JB weld:
You can get this at Walmart for about $8
Total about $77.74
Next let's look at the materials. I use materials from smooth-on.com
I use Mold Max 15 T for my molds. A trial pack of which is $26.63
Most people use Task 3 resin. A trial pack of which is $27.13
The shipping for these will be about $15
Total about $68.76
So roughly $146.50 to get started using the basics of what most of the casters use. I use 45D as well for my own mixtures, but Task 3 is definitely a good place to start.
The so-strong color pigments are $13.60 each for the 2 oz droppers, or 108.71 for all 8 colors. So that's not a necessary expense as you can paint the parts, but if you want to cast in different colors it's nice to have that option.
Now lets talk other tools
You'll need a scale for the rubber, oral syringes for pulling the resin out of the containers for precise measuring, and plastic cups for mixing the rubber, and plastic. I suggest 16 oz for the rubber, and 5, or 7 oz for the plastic depending on the size of runs you're planning to do 7 oz is what I usually use. You'll need 100% pure acetone for cleaning your syringes which is found easier at Target than Walmart this is about $2.50. Please keep in mind that it will eat through the plastic cups so if your wife, or girlfriend has an old nail polish bottle that is empty you might want to cut the bottom of it off, and use that to pour the acetone into. The other thing you'll need is stirrers. I use an old metal butter knife for stirring the rubber, and plastic eating utensil handles for stirring the plastic. Next time your wife decides she wants new silver ware, grab a couple pieces from the old set, or you could just buy her a new set making her think you're doing it for her. Hey any way that you can make her think everything you do is for her the better right? So that'll set you back what like $25-$50, or you could just grab some plastic flat ware from McDonalds next time you're there.
So for these you're looking at about $20 for the scale, $3 for the syringe at K-mart the only place I've found that still carries syringes that don't have the rubber pieces in them. About $2, or $3 for the 16 oz cups, and about $2 for the 7 oz cups. $2.50 or so for a bottle of acetone. You'll also need a heat glue gun you don't need a real expensive one so the $5 one from Walmart is going to be fine, and then just get the small sticks for about $5, and toothpicks honestly who doesn't have these already, but they're usually about $2.
Total about $44
So for about $200 you can get the basics of what you need to copy guns, and heads, and some other items. Believe it or not the trial packs can go further than you might think they can. Just keep the molds small. Use medicine bottles, or acetone caps (the ones from Target are really tall, and work really well), or even hair spray caps, and small medicine dosing cups. You can also build boxes out of foam board for larger items. I've even used some of my plastic cups from time to time.
It sounds expensive, but it's really not that bad. We drop more than that on 2 cases of figures. If you have an item you use allot for dios, or you'd really like more of, but it's not easily found in the wild, or on casters' sites it can save you money in the long run.
I often copy parts that I don't have for people for free though, and give them credit for sending it to me when I put it in my store.
parts:
lets go from most to least expensive
Stainless Steel Pressure pot:
You can get one from Amazon for as little as $43.99 + shipping. About $60
http://www.amazon.com/Presto-6-Quar...=8-1&keywords=stainless+steel+pressure+cooker
pressure gauge:
You can get this at Walmart for $6.77
tire valve stem:
You can get the TR 413 tire valve stems for $2.97
JB weld:
You can get this at Walmart for about $8
Total about $77.74
Next let's look at the materials. I use materials from smooth-on.com
I use Mold Max 15 T for my molds. A trial pack of which is $26.63
Most people use Task 3 resin. A trial pack of which is $27.13
The shipping for these will be about $15
Total about $68.76
So roughly $146.50 to get started using the basics of what most of the casters use. I use 45D as well for my own mixtures, but Task 3 is definitely a good place to start.
The so-strong color pigments are $13.60 each for the 2 oz droppers, or 108.71 for all 8 colors. So that's not a necessary expense as you can paint the parts, but if you want to cast in different colors it's nice to have that option.
Now lets talk other tools
You'll need a scale for the rubber, oral syringes for pulling the resin out of the containers for precise measuring, and plastic cups for mixing the rubber, and plastic. I suggest 16 oz for the rubber, and 5, or 7 oz for the plastic depending on the size of runs you're planning to do 7 oz is what I usually use. You'll need 100% pure acetone for cleaning your syringes which is found easier at Target than Walmart this is about $2.50. Please keep in mind that it will eat through the plastic cups so if your wife, or girlfriend has an old nail polish bottle that is empty you might want to cut the bottom of it off, and use that to pour the acetone into. The other thing you'll need is stirrers. I use an old metal butter knife for stirring the rubber, and plastic eating utensil handles for stirring the plastic. Next time your wife decides she wants new silver ware, grab a couple pieces from the old set, or you could just buy her a new set making her think you're doing it for her. Hey any way that you can make her think everything you do is for her the better right? So that'll set you back what like $25-$50, or you could just grab some plastic flat ware from McDonalds next time you're there.
So for these you're looking at about $20 for the scale, $3 for the syringe at K-mart the only place I've found that still carries syringes that don't have the rubber pieces in them. About $2, or $3 for the 16 oz cups, and about $2 for the 7 oz cups. $2.50 or so for a bottle of acetone. You'll also need a heat glue gun you don't need a real expensive one so the $5 one from Walmart is going to be fine, and then just get the small sticks for about $5, and toothpicks honestly who doesn't have these already, but they're usually about $2.
Total about $44
So for about $200 you can get the basics of what you need to copy guns, and heads, and some other items. Believe it or not the trial packs can go further than you might think they can. Just keep the molds small. Use medicine bottles, or acetone caps (the ones from Target are really tall, and work really well), or even hair spray caps, and small medicine dosing cups. You can also build boxes out of foam board for larger items. I've even used some of my plastic cups from time to time.
It sounds expensive, but it's really not that bad. We drop more than that on 2 cases of figures. If you have an item you use allot for dios, or you'd really like more of, but it's not easily found in the wild, or on casters' sites it can save you money in the long run.
I often copy parts that I don't have for people for free though, and give them credit for sending it to me when I put it in my store.
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Before I realized what I really needed to do I used the HL stuff and spent about $600 in trial and error trying different things to get it right. I asked several casters if they would help and not one that I asked even replied to me. I was just about through with trying to figure it out and I stumbled upon SWG's tutorial.
https://www.og13.com/forums/showthread.php?4576-Molding-and-Casting-101-video-tutorial-series
He literally shows you step by step on what to do in order to make your basic molds and how to cast them. Tells you what he uses and what he has used in the past. I Pm'ed him to thank him for posting such a "secretive" tutorial. SWG is one of the few casters that I know that will try and answer a question for you without holding back. I try and do the same thing if I know the answer and help fellow members of our community.
Anyways, I bought the setup that Dave has. Here is a pic
I got the pots for 30% or 40% off at harbor freight and all of the fitting cost me roughly $30 per pot. The pots are normally $100. I bought a air compressor for $50 at harbor freight as well. I use smooth on resins and silicone as well. Resin runs me $90 a gallon and silicone is $88 or so a gallon. I have put another $1000 into it since I saw SWG's tutorial and moving along fairly well now.
https://www.og13.com/forums/showthread.php?4576-Molding-and-Casting-101-video-tutorial-series
He literally shows you step by step on what to do in order to make your basic molds and how to cast them. Tells you what he uses and what he has used in the past. I Pm'ed him to thank him for posting such a "secretive" tutorial. SWG is one of the few casters that I know that will try and answer a question for you without holding back. I try and do the same thing if I know the answer and help fellow members of our community.
Anyways, I bought the setup that Dave has. Here is a pic
I got the pots for 30% or 40% off at harbor freight and all of the fitting cost me roughly $30 per pot. The pots are normally $100. I bought a air compressor for $50 at harbor freight as well. I use smooth on resins and silicone as well. Resin runs me $90 a gallon and silicone is $88 or so a gallon. I have put another $1000 into it since I saw SWG's tutorial and moving along fairly well now.
You ever need help just hit me up.
Before I realized what I really needed to do I used the HL stuff and spent about $600 in trial and error trying different things to get it right. I asked several casters if they would help and not one that I asked even replied to me. I was just about through with trying to figure it out and I stumbled upon SWG's tutorial.
https://www.og13.com/forums/showthread.php?4576-Molding-and-Casting-101-video-tutorial-series
He literally shows you step by step on what to do in order to make your basic molds and how to cast them. Tells you what he uses and what he has used in the past. I Pm'ed him to thank him for posting such a "secretive" tutorial. SWG is one of the few casters that I know that will try and answer a question for you without holding back. I try and do the same thing if I know the answer and help fellow members of our community.
Anyways, I bought the setup that Dave has. Here is a pic
I got the pots for 30% or 40% off at harbor freight and all of the fitting cost me roughly $30 per pot. The pots are normally $100. I bought a air compressor for $50 at harbor freight as well. I use smooth on resins and silicone as well. Resin runs me $90 a gallon and silicone is $88 or so a gallon. I have put another $1000 into it since I saw SWG's tutorial and moving along fairly well now.
One huge thing you can do to reduce costs and find out if it is for you or not, is to test the waters with someone who already is doing this. If you know of any caster willing to let you stop by and run a batch or two it is well worth the drive. I started out with basic plaster mold experience and contacted Slayer. SlayerDave loaned or gave me everything I needed to start. I believe fogger, HunterArtWorks, SWG, and many others all had similar beginnings with SlayerDave. If you know anyone already casting close enough to visit you can bypass a lot of the initial costs by helping them for an afternoon. Some castors guard the knowledge, but many like SWG are willing to share what they know gladly. I would say the first thing you should do before even buying the starter kit is to see if there is anyone close to you that can show you the ropes. When you do buy the starter kit, you will be able to get the most out of it with the fewest mistakes.
I think you can see from the many different castors posting, most are more than willing to help a brother get started.
I think you can see from the many different castors posting, most are more than willing to help a brother get started.
Okay, you guys convinced me to NOT get into this...sounds way more expensive than I was expecting it to cost to make a few random parts when the need arises...
The only thing I wouldn't need to buy is an air compressor
The only thing I wouldn't need to buy is an air compressor
I actually have the tiniest expireince...my wife works in an orthodontic office and has to make molds of teeth...so I wanted to cast a TF face and had her bring home the stuff to make the mold and a cast...oh, also had to make a copy of a DCUC WW torso to bake a flexible sculpt onto...both came out well, but were plaster based...I used a vibrator to vibrate the air bubbles out like my wife does at work...
So, I got the gist of how it works and how to do it, but again, it seems too rich for my blood to random things...
So, I got the gist of how it works and how to do it, but again, it seems too rich for my blood to random things...
Okay, you guys convinced me to NOT get into this...sounds way more expensive than I was expecting it to cost to make a few random parts when the need arises...
The only thing I wouldn't need to buy is an air compressor
Ya know, I've always wondered if a small mold couldn't be made from automotive RTV silicone.....
I wasn't trying to scare you away from trying. I just wanted to give you a list of what those of us who do this as a business use. To help you get the most professional results when making your copies.
Also there is a book you might want to look into getting called "Popsculpture" it has tons of useful information about sculpting, molding, casting, and even painting tricks.
HOW DID NOBODY ELSE LAUGH AT THIS ONE? It was a great joke!
And dammit, Eddie! How could anyone NOT read this like that?
I'm in the same boat as Eddie. If I had a house and didn't live in a condo, I'd look into casting more, but trying something "new" and something expensive scares me away. Hell, I haven't even had the time to really tackle sculpting, and I think I'd be good at that with practice. I just don't have the space to do all this Weird Science, though.
I wish I lived closer to a "novice"/learning caster like Fogger so I could learn from someone while they're learning. I'd be too nervous to goof up in front of one of the more experienced casters, though. Most of the casters supply me with what I've needed for less than buying my own gear, though, however if I could cast in specific colors, that'd be worth the investment. And I know Eddie hates paint rub as much as me, and tries to color-match plastic as often as possible.
Casting flexible things like helmets and webgear, and replacement parts like fucking tiny Masterpiece Transformer fingers that pop off at the thought of moving them, would be the extent of my main needs, though.
depends on your health insurance
And dammit, Eddie! How could anyone NOT read this like that?
I'm in the same boat as Eddie. If I had a house and didn't live in a condo, I'd look into casting more, but trying something "new" and something expensive scares me away. Hell, I haven't even had the time to really tackle sculpting, and I think I'd be good at that with practice. I just don't have the space to do all this Weird Science, though.
I wish I lived closer to a "novice"/learning caster like Fogger so I could learn from someone while they're learning. I'd be too nervous to goof up in front of one of the more experienced casters, though. Most of the casters supply me with what I've needed for less than buying my own gear, though, however if I could cast in specific colors, that'd be worth the investment. And I know Eddie hates paint rub as much as me, and tries to color-match plastic as often as possible.
Casting flexible things like helmets and webgear, and replacement parts like fucking tiny Masterpiece Transformer fingers that pop off at the thought of moving them, would be the extent of my main needs, though.
Yeah I saw it, but I just didn't feel it'd be right to comment about other's health issues. You know they say that when you do Karma can be a real bitch, so no way would I do that.
As for the vibrator sorry if I take things a little too seriously some times, and I saw the original post as a serious question, but I knew he was talking about one of those vibrating plates. Never used one, but I've heard of them.
As for the vibrator sorry if I take things a little too seriously some times, and I saw the original post as a serious question, but I knew he was talking about one of those vibrating plates. Never used one, but I've heard of them.
Well if that joke is going to hurt my Karma meter, I'm not worried. I've done enough horrible things in my life to put me deep in the hole already
Heh - you have no idea how much resin I've wasted figuring out simple stuff. Like don't mix too much resin at a time.
Yeah when I first started out I had no idea how much I'd need for the molds I was using so I just mixed up about 20-30 ml at a time, and if I had extra I just kept filling molds, but I usually still had a bunch left in the cup.
The first time I mixed some up I used the scale, and poured both A&B into the same cup, and it hardened in the cup.
We've probably all done the same thing...I messed up so much crap at the beginning.
Vortious-what kind of resin are using that you measure in volume?
No initial trial and error for me. I was taught how to do it the first time I tried.
Do you cast the weapons on your site?
smooth-on's task 3, and 45-D. It just requires equal amounts whether it's by weight, or by ml (volume). I noticed that the weight of the 2 containers are pretty much exactly the same. So I started using an oral syringe to pull the plastics out of the containers, and distributing them into the cups.
Where it starts getting tricky is the specialty mixtures I have of the 2 different plastics. When I first started mixing them while I was kind of working w/ Onyx he told me that the 2 products wouldn't mix, but not only do they mix, but I get different sure hardness results depending on the mixture. Though I can't claim that the idea to mix them was mine. It was my 16yr old son who came up with the idea. Now I actually have it down to almost an exact science of how much I need of each part A, and part B in order to get the more MU consistency heads, arms, and legs. Even my clear plastic is a mixture of the 2. The reason I started mixing the plastics is because I'm not happy w/ how brittle the Task 3 is. So by adding 45-D I make it a little more flexible so that it doesn't just break off. Oddly however when the 45-D gets overly oxidized, and is ready to go bad the parts made w/ the older 45-D are so brittle that the flexing that wouldn't usually cause any problems makes it crack, and almost kind of shatter. So I got some of that dry gas blanket stuff to keep the newest batch good.
Umm isn't that the same thing as casting? You just inject the rubber molds w/ the plastic/ resin instead of pouring it. Right?
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I believe he's talking about injection molding using a machine, using heated plastic rather than a resin mix.
Hmm interesting. I have been thinking of looking into other forms of casting including the 3-D printing route. I'll have to look into the injection process as well.