WildBill's Customs and Dios
- Thread starter WildBill
- Start date
Blaine with neck mod
I also tried to make his camo look more like tiger stripe.
Lots of head movement now
I also tried to make his camo look more like tiger stripe.
Lots of head movement now
All very nice. Blaine is my favorite. looks great. The neck may be a tad long though. Even his figure doesnt have time to bleed.
You've been busy RJ! They all look great. You even managed to cop a NJCC HISS?
I really like the special ops team.
I really like the special ops team.
Hey Bud,
Yeah we made the stickers for the NJCC HISS tanks.
Thanks guys, Those Viper helmets took a long time to dremel. I had great plans for a dio story but alas I have very limited time.
Dude, you have some fantastic customs!
That modified Stinger looks real good. Scratchbuilt turret?
That modified Stinger looks real good. Scratchbuilt turret?
Thanks, I find scratch built is the only way to get exactly what you want. A point I shall demonstrate strongly in the days to come.
Meanwhile some stuff from last year;
I know the items in the background are lawn stuff or household items, but in this photo they really do look like buildings of a post-modern design. Good work!
You bet Fore and aft movement. Alows a more natural prone position for sniping letting the head look down the rifle rather than looking asleep.
Did you use a forearm to pull this off? That is what I did on the new Renegade Duke PMC I made...curious if you did the same.
Can you you into detail your steps as my 1st attempt was a fail and I ended up dremelling out the neck and a hole into the chest and glueing the forearm inside.
Ok,
More scratch building to get what I want;
MH-6M
A: Wish this was a kit.
B: Someone should do a recontured 500E nose. I'd love to do a foreign MD gunship with the MMS.
Did you use a forearm to pull this off? That is what I did on the new Renegade Duke PMC I made...curious if you did the same.
Can you you into detail your steps as my 1st attempt was a fail and I ended up dremelling out the neck and a hole into the chest and glueing the forearm inside.
Sure I'll try to do another one before I go back to work.I'm doing the neck joint upside down to the way everyone else is doing it.
It only allows the fore aft in one direction but I find it looks less bulky.
If only I had the technology...
Thought I'd post my process for customising one of the renegades Duke figures.
I like this fig a lot. It has great potential for customising.
These are the paints I've been using. Super cheap acrylics from Michaels. I think they were $1 for 3 when they are on sale. These are the colours I'll be using.
I've decided to give the figure denim type pants. The great thing about denim is that you aren't resticted to any particular shade as Jeans come in a variety of coulours.
My base coat is 652 Dark Blue
I also painted the t-shirt in Matte Black.
One thing to consider with these particular paints is the base coat of the figure. If you are departing from the original colour you'll need to apply several coats.
In this case the base plastic colour is adding to the denim shade so I'm only applying 1 coat but assuring a complete coverage.
Once the paint has dried(about 10 mins) I then apply a semi dry bush with the 650 turquoise blue.
I like this fig a lot. It has great potential for customising.
These are the paints I've been using. Super cheap acrylics from Michaels. I think they were $1 for 3 when they are on sale. These are the colours I'll be using.
I've decided to give the figure denim type pants. The great thing about denim is that you aren't resticted to any particular shade as Jeans come in a variety of coulours.
My base coat is 652 Dark Blue
I also painted the t-shirt in Matte Black.
One thing to consider with these particular paints is the base coat of the figure. If you are departing from the original colour you'll need to apply several coats.
In this case the base plastic colour is adding to the denim shade so I'm only applying 1 coat but assuring a complete coverage.
Once the paint has dried(about 10 mins) I then apply a semi dry bush with the 650 turquoise blue.
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I then apply a dry brushing in white to the whole figure to further accent the detail of the pants. This figure has awesome folds in the leg castings.
Depending on the environment in which your figure is intended to operate, you could change the white for a hue more suited to the colour of the dust of the region.
It's at this point that my process differs slightly from that of others. Instead of applying a wash to accentuate the recesses, I use a 000 brush to paint in the darker areas.
I trace around all the pocket and strap details as well as running stripes through the lowest folds. The consistency of the paint is quite watered down so it can also be used to dull any of the dry brushed areas you are unhappy with.
I used a special mix of matte black and the 652 base coat for this. Essentially I'm achieving the same effect as a wash but it is less general.
Depending on the environment in which your figure is intended to operate, you could change the white for a hue more suited to the colour of the dust of the region.
It's at this point that my process differs slightly from that of others. Instead of applying a wash to accentuate the recesses, I use a 000 brush to paint in the darker areas.
I trace around all the pocket and strap details as well as running stripes through the lowest folds. The consistency of the paint is quite watered down so it can also be used to dull any of the dry brushed areas you are unhappy with.
I used a special mix of matte black and the 652 base coat for this. Essentially I'm achieving the same effect as a wash but it is less general.
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FOr the knee pads I applied a coat of gull grey, accentuated the rivet recesses with matte black and then applied a drybrushing of matte white to the center.
The final outcome assembled;
Not bad for 25 Minutes of work. let the paint cure over night then apply a more general wash if you find the highlights are too bright. If you intend to handle the figure frequently, once the paint is fully cured, get yourself a good matte acrylic and do a general coat to seal the paint and make it longer lasting.
Next I'll do the neck joint.
The final outcome assembled;
Not bad for 25 Minutes of work. let the paint cure over night then apply a more general wash if you find the highlights are too bright. If you intend to handle the figure frequently, once the paint is fully cured, get yourself a good matte acrylic and do a general coat to seal the paint and make it longer lasting.
Next I'll do the neck joint.
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Alright, neck joint.
I'm going to say up front that this didn't turn out quite as good as I'd hoped on this figure.
I was hoping with the double ball neck I could easily replace the lower ball with a joint. I did achieve that but had a little misshap with dremelling.
Also, the vest on this figure restrics the rearward tilt of the head so that the full mobility of the joint can not be achieved.
Anyway, this is how I do the neck joint mod.
I am adding the joint to Renegades Duke. You can see some of the painting I've been up to with the rest of the figs in this picture.
Donor fig;
REmove the neck at the lower neck ball
Dremel out the lower neck ball to create a pocket for the joint.
Here you can see I had a misshap with the dremel and it chewed my nice pocket. Nertz. Anyway...let's move on.
Drill a hole into the neck ball to accept the trimmed down post you will create on the joint.
Apparently I missed a couple of pictures at this point....probably because I was trying to save the figure after messing up.
Dremel out the neck on the figure deep enough to accept the elbow joint. This went well.
Trim the forearm of the elbow joint down to fit the hole you have made in the neck of the figure....It was during this phase that I cracked the back of the neck on the figure....Damn! anyway after I got it in place and glue it in it wasn't noticeable.
trim the forearm joint so it fits into the hole you drilled in the neck ball.
Mine had to go on crooked because I wanted the joint to be invisible from the front. If you managed not to screw up in the critical areas I did, you'd end up with a nice straight neck and hidden joint.
It worked out anyway because I would have had to trim out the pocket at the back of the neck ball to allow the head to pivot back.
I'm going to say up front that this didn't turn out quite as good as I'd hoped on this figure.
I was hoping with the double ball neck I could easily replace the lower ball with a joint. I did achieve that but had a little misshap with dremelling.
Also, the vest on this figure restrics the rearward tilt of the head so that the full mobility of the joint can not be achieved.
Anyway, this is how I do the neck joint mod.
I am adding the joint to Renegades Duke. You can see some of the painting I've been up to with the rest of the figs in this picture.
Donor fig;
REmove the neck at the lower neck ball
Dremel out the lower neck ball to create a pocket for the joint.
Here you can see I had a misshap with the dremel and it chewed my nice pocket. Nertz. Anyway...let's move on.
Drill a hole into the neck ball to accept the trimmed down post you will create on the joint.
Apparently I missed a couple of pictures at this point....probably because I was trying to save the figure after messing up.
Dremel out the neck on the figure deep enough to accept the elbow joint. This went well.
Trim the forearm of the elbow joint down to fit the hole you have made in the neck of the figure....It was during this phase that I cracked the back of the neck on the figure....Damn! anyway after I got it in place and glue it in it wasn't noticeable.
trim the forearm joint so it fits into the hole you drilled in the neck ball.
Mine had to go on crooked because I wanted the joint to be invisible from the front. If you managed not to screw up in the critical areas I did, you'd end up with a nice straight neck and hidden joint.
It worked out anyway because I would have had to trim out the pocket at the back of the neck ball to allow the head to pivot back.
Obviously you'd get way more mobility with the vest removed
But you can see it gives you just a bit more head tilt to allow a prone position.
But you can see it gives you just a bit more head tilt to allow a prone position.
That is effin' awesome! When does production start?!! 
You need a Low Light with that neck. That would be stellar.
You need a Low Light with that neck. That would be stellar.