Fast and dirty molding for your Joes

[HUNMARINE]

Hi there!

Just want to say hi to the guys who dont know me. =)
I've posted this molding method on another website...and now want to share it with all of you.
With all my customs (you will see) - I try to achieve maximum from minimum resources, mostly using stuff that you can find all around in your house.

So..I will start with my molding technique.
Its pretty simple...fast...and not for mass production, but you will find a really helpful method to help you out when you need to copy some stuff. (guns, knifes, pistols, even some headgear)

I show you 2 ways of my molding technique.
With first one - we will mold Ultimate Roadblocks .50 cal. Browining MG.
I choosed this gun, to help out those guys, who want 2 bigger MG on their Eaglehawk


DSCN2898 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

So what we will need:
2 component epoxy clay syringe. (I'm Hungarian...but located in Moscow Russia for now) - so I used a russian one called: "Moment"...sure you can use another one. I choosed this for my first molds cause it have a mix-tube, and dried freakin' fast.


DSCN2899 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

And...you will never guess))...Childrens playing plastiline:

DSCN2900 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Yes..plastiline. It harden in cold, and become soft when it warmed.

So - lets begin our fun! =)

 

[HUNMARINE]

First of all - we take apart our MG. And take nearly 2 amount of plastiline for every part. This we will need - to make our molding parts =)


DSCN2901 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

I usually form a cubes...so it easy to push your parts halfway inside:


DSCN2904 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Add some holes - so the 2 part form will stick together better and you wont displace them with one another.


DSCN2906 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Here is your 1st part molding forms.
Put them like that into the fridge nearly for a 30 min.


DSCN2907 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

When you take them out - push the 2nd part all over it:


DSCN2911 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

So this is what you'll get:


DSCN2915 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Take out the parts...and put both molding forms back into the fridge for another 30-40 min.


DSCN2917 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

 

[HUNMARINE]

Until our molding forms are harden, you can do this - cut the back of the syringe to see how much epoxy you have in the tubes:


DSCN2918 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

When you took out your forms - before the mold itself its recommended to cut little air-tonnels in the forms.


DSCN2919 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

So...the magic:
When you settled the syringe with mixing tube - you have to work fast. Sure it depends on the type of epoxy clay you use (and I will show another one wich is better) The cheapest one (like Moment) - harden really fast...It starts to sick together in less than a 1 minute..sure it harden to plastic in 3-4 hours...but it impossible to work with it after 30-40 sec.
So push slowly out the mixed stuff in the form and my advice - do as many forms as you can...so you can use the whole syringe stuff. Cause using the cheapest ones - means the epoxy will harden even in the syringe itself.

So push the mix out in the 1st form. (push nearly 2 amount of he form) and then put the 2nd form above it. Push them together and let them dry.


DSCN2922 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN2924 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Thanks to the bubbles on the sides - you can always check how hard is the poxy inside.
Sometimes it wont work for first. But some patience and it will worth your experince - belive me =)

So after 4 hour...we open the forms:


DSCN2925 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Slowly...here you shouldn't have to hurry. We used plastiline becasue after every molding process - we can re-use it again and again. Sure the "epoxied" part we have to cut out...but it means economy =)


DSCN2926 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

When you cleared your parts - this what you willl get:


DSCN2927 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN2928 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Sure this method helps to copy some stuff..but it won't be exactly the 100% copy. I say 75%-80%...Look - my MG base - comes "without" the reload handle =)))...Not a problem - some creative fix...a toothpick part - and voulais:


DSCN2929 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN2931 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN2932 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

 

[HUNMARINE]

As you can see on the previous pictures the parts still a bit "dirty"..so lets clear them with some prof.tools. =)
I use this little baby:


DSCN2933 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

So after necessary cutting, drilling, cleaning and glueing...here it is...our copy:


DSCN2939 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN2934 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN2936 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

And you can be sure - it perfectly fits the Eaglehawk:


DSCN2937 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN2938 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Sure the colour isn't perfect...but it always can be painted =)


DSCN2945 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN2946 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN2952 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN2955 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

 

[HUNMARINE]

Its up to you for what you use this method. My first thought was to complete my Steel Brigade squad with pistols and knifes..even with a radio-set in the back of their vests:


DSCN2941 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

and sure add some weapons too))


DSCN2943 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN2940 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

 

[Meddatron]

Nice. Thankyou! I love when new members come out swinging! Welcome Aboard!!

 

[HUNMARINE]

As another way - you can use an epoxy clays without mixing tubes...and wich harden a bit longer...nearly 5 min until it starts to stick together.
I tried this one:


DSCN2944 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

With this epoxy - I copied the Maradeurs 7 pack Falcons beret, to make one for my Ultimate Flint.

So as I said - 1st step is the froms:


DSCN3047 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

the 2nd step - we have to somehow mix the epoxy. Well..I bought cheap syringes for that. Push some stuff out from the epoxy tubes inside the syringe (push as much as you will need). Than close the epoxy tubes.


DSCN3048 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Start to mix the epoxy inside the syringe until you get a 1 colored mix.


DSCN3049 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Assemble your syringe and push the mix out right into your form:


DSCN3050 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Put it together and leave harden it for nearly 5-6 hours:


DSCN3051 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Ta-daa


DSCN3058 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN3059 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN3061 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

A little sanding required:


DSCN3097 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

After the paintwork:


DSCN3098 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN3099 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN3100 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

See the M249 in RB's hands - a copy with the Bison epoxy =)


DSCN3101 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

 

[HUNMARINE]

So...as a next step - I'll try to copy a backpack with this method.
Anyway - I hope it helps you out if you need to copy something fast.
All in all 6-7 hours and you have the copy in your hand =)

Feel free and ask any questions - I'll try to answer them =)

And sorry for grammar...)

Nice. Thankyou! I love when new members come out swinging! Welcome Aboard!!

Thank you!
I'm glad to be finally here =)

 

[lancelot]

Leave to an eastern European person to come up with a quick and rugged way to make guns. Well done!

 

[Monkeywrench]

Excellent Tutorial!

Great to have you here!

 

[NSA]

Welcome!

 

[Mandingo Rex]

Thanks for the tutorial, and welcome!

Just a little criticism/question: it's a tad… rough (?) for smooth, straight, geometric items, but I can see that coming in handy for replicating more organic parts, or pouches/pockets where smooth/clean edges don't matter as much. Or does it not work as well with those sorts of items?

 

[HUNMARINE]

Thx everyone, and I'm glad to be here =)

Thanks for the tutorial, and welcome!

Just a little criticism/question: it's a tad… rough (?) for smooth, straight, geometric items, but I can see that coming in handy for replicating more organic parts, or pouches/pockets where smooth/clean edges don't matter as much. Or does it not work as well with those sorts of items?

Well I'll be honest - I didn't tried anything else than Joe stuff. I don't have any purpose to copy something else
I've tried different weapons (pistols, smg's, mg's, rifles, knifes) - and most of the time it copy's the original but have some minor troubles, wich can sold by some sanding or little cutting, like: wider details, extra epoxy on the model and so on.
Yeah - you right..its a bit "rough"...and as you can see I try to figure out how far this method can go. I never thought about to copy a beret - well now we know - its possible =) I tried several times to copy a backpack - but with no good results. Lets say the Moment epoxy (first one in the photos) - did only 50% of the job. (I tried 2 or 3 times)...Now I will try with the Bison (I hope it will work better) - and sure I show what we can expect if we try to copy like this =)

 

[HUNMARINE]

Hi again guys.
So as I promised I show you how my method works with backpacks:

We do all the same steps one by one. I used the same BISON syrenge epoxy for the mold:


DSCN3128 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN3129 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Here you can see that I made a 1 piece mold.
I just fulfilled the part with the mixed stuff and put a cardboard over it.
A little duck tape and leaved it for 6 hours.
Why? - It not necessary to make those peg detail. I'll show below how to make it...but without it - its a perfect fir for the vehicle.

 

[HUNMARINE]

DSCN3130 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

After 6 hours - I've got this. You can see that the air bubbles make some big holes in the copy.
I didn't want to put this baby inside the trash bin...SO I decided to save it somehow.
I just fullfilled the holes with more epoxy and leaved it for another 6 hours. Than a little sandeing was required:


DSCN3134 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

 

[HUNMARINE]

So this is what you can do to make it fit the figures:


DSCN3135 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Cut a piece of carboard and glue it to the copy, so the surface can be more straight. Than dremel a tiny whole in the centre of the detail.
Than cut a piece of the ink-tube of the used pen and just glue it inside the dremeled hole. Voulais. =)

 

[HUNMARINE]

So the first look:
The original


DSCN3141 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

The copy


DSCN3137 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

 

[HUNMARINE]

A little paintwork:


DSCN3138 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN3140 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

and again
The original:


DSCN3136 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

The final copy:

DSCN3144 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Yes..isn't a 100% copy...but I can give it 85-90%.
Ideal to gear up a little army =)

So to summ up:
We know how to copy weapons.
We know how to copy headgears.
Now we know how to copy backpacks.

I hope I can figure out next, how to copy armor-vests..and than you will able to gear up a whole figure on your own.
Wish me luck. =)

Thanks for watching...and happy molding! =)

 

[Meddatron]

cool. I wonder if using this method and a type of silicone for the final product would work for vests once you have the mold done. Thinking it may be flexible, but I have no idea if it would pick up and hold details.

 

[MMorelock66]

I wanna try this... odds are I won't.

 

[Monkeywrench]

Thanks for sharing!

 

[HUNMARINE]

cool. I wonder if using this method and a type of silicone for the final product would work for vests once you have the mold done. Thinking it may be flexible, but I have no idea if it would pick up and hold details.

I'm in the preparation process right now. And one of the main questions is, that you mentioned - the copy should be flexible at the end.
The epoxy is pretty sturdy and hard at the end. Well...I'll try out several type of materials and when I find out the best method - I'll post it =)

I wanna try this... odds are I won't.

Thanks for sharing!

Thank you guys! =)

 

[HUNMARINE]

Hello guys, its me again =)

So as I promised - I did the vest copy.
So here it is how its came out:


DSCN3177 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

I decided to make it a 4 part vest (the front, the back and the 2 pouches from each side)...and then try to build up the whole thing.
You will see how i did it, and how you can do it.

As many of you told me to use the hot glue, so I bought my new little friend:


DSCN3180 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

I fulfilled the molding parts with hot glue. Well to be honest - its pretty good thing. You have to wait 5 min till its warm up...and when it pushed it out - its only 20 min till it hardens.
One bad thing about it:


DSCN3181 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

For such dirty molding - it's not an option. Its really hard to work with due its flexability. And with cleaning all the tiny details on the front an back sides -was destruct. But its the best thing to do fast copy of pouches, thx to less details on it (you will see at the end how).

 

[HUNMARINE]

So I went with the classics: Bison 2 part epoxy


DSCN3182 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

It was the bottom of the syringe...so the 2 pouches won't harden at all - so they went to the trash bin...but the main parts:


DSCN3185 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

I was thinking how the hell I will put the whole thing together. I've tried harbands...does'nt work at all....And big thx to ruforce77....who someday before gave a great idea: velcro!

Yes...tiny parts of velcro glued to each parts makes the front an back sides stay together. And you can also glue pouches on the velcro...so this is how it works:


DSCN3188 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN3189 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

 

[HUNMARINE]

Okay...we put together the sides...so whats about the shoulder parts?...I decided to use hot glue. It will glue together the parts and give some flexability to make it easy to put the vest on and take it off the figure.
So to make some place where to put the hot glue...I made little straps:


DSCN3190 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN3191 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Before I put the hot glue on the vest..I decided to make some additional pouches...so make the vest a bit like a custom..and show you the possible way to what and how you can do.
I copied some of the OURWAR vest pouches:
(the green duck tape on the vest - prevent the hot glue dropping on the inside of the vest and on your table)


DSCN3192 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN3193 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Ta daa...4 pouches out of 5 in less than 30 min. Not bad =)


DSCN3194 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN3195 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

 

[HUNMARINE]

As you can see...the vest become a bit bulcky. So with some dremeling and cutting...this is what you''ll get:


DSCN3196 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Here I added a piece of wire for a radio=)


DSCN3197 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Ok..now its time for painting and sealing:


DSCN3205 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN3206 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN3207 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN3210 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

 

[HUNMARINE]

So..just to show what all this molding thing from me was for:

Here are your figure (added DJ Cotrona head, cause the beret didnt work with Falcon's):


DSCN3212 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Everything on this figure was made by the epoxy copy method:


DSCN3213 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Wich works pretty well....durable...and doesn't prevent your figure to pose life-like:


DSCN3215 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

So all the gear: the gun...beret...vest..and even the back-pack:


DSCN3216 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr


DSCN3217 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

Wich means - you can gear up a whole figure on your own. Make a troops look a like...with same colors...or weapons...anything.
I hope it'll help many of you.
I'm sorry that this method isn't the best one...but it works pretty well.

Thank you guys for support and watching.
I wish you good luck in your moldings.
Now you know how to do it. And knowing - is half the battle!
YO JOE!


DSCN3218 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr

 

[Meddatron]

Outstanding, you did it. I was unsure about the vests. But you nailed it!

 

[Monkeywrench]

Excellent!

Thanks for sharing

 

[HUNMARINE]

Outstanding, you did it. I was unsure about the vests. But you nailed it!

It took me a lot of time to figure it out. There was a momnet when I thought I drop the towel. But as you can see I've found the solution =)
Thank you.

Excellent!

Thanks for sharing

Thanks!..Its my pleasure...Hope it helps out our fellow fighters