Modern Scrap Iron

Starfighter

Enlisted
Founder
Mar 15, 2011
258
0
0
47
This is my first ever painted custom figure. Vehicles are a lot different to do in my opinion. I have always been leery of painting the figures but after buying some of the Vallejo paints at Hobby Lobby, I decided to take a shot. I used to have the mindset that if Hasbro did not officially make it, then it does not count. However, there are a lot of 25th figures that need to be updated.

I decided to do Scrap Iron first as I have always been fascinated with him ever since he was first released back in 1984. I never did have the original but always played with my friend's Scrap Iron in our battles in the dirt, snow & in swimming pools.

As for the vest, I still am deciding if I want to use the PoC Firefly (Predator) vest or the RoC Cobra Night Adder instead but did not have them handy when peicing together the parts.

Anyway here is the Modern Scrap Iron below.

Parts list:
Head - 25th Scrap Iron
Entire Body - PoC/30th Cobra Trooper
Vest - Renegades Cobra Trooper
Gun - BBi Elite Force
Missile System - 25th Scrap Iron
Paints - Vallejo Paints from Hobby Lobby

 
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Starfighter

Enlisted
Founder
Mar 15, 2011
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Tackling red paint with your first custom?! Bold move and you did a great job! An excellent update.

Many thanks. I love the Vallejo paints. Very easy to clean too. I did not seal it though. Should I put clear coat sealer on it? If so, does anyone know if it will make the piant run? I have never done this before?
 

Cloud Strife

Mako Infused SOLDIER
Apr 16, 2011
3,394
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Midgar
There's disagreement on sealing the soft plastic parts of action figures. A chemical reaction takes place which causes the soft plastic parts to become tacky indefinitely. However, I've used Testors Dullcote on soft plastic parts and haven't had a problem. Just make sure the areas being sprayed have been painted over and follow the directions on the can to a "T". So, do it when there's not much humidity in the air, don't do it when it's cold, and when spraying, don't start on the figure. Start to the left or the right, holding it the can at the distance as the instructions tell you to, and go by it relatively quick. You'll want to make sure to wait about 30 minutes between coats before spraying the next. Also, make sure to keep shaking the crap out of the can between coats so that the sealant is good and mixed up.

You might test it out on a scrap figure your first time or 2.
 

K-Tiger

All solutions are final.
Founder
Mar 14, 2011
31,266
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Many thanks. I love the Vallejo paints. Very easy to clean too. I did not seal it though. Should I put clear coat sealer on it? If so, does anyone know if it will make the piant run? I have never done this before?

Any problem with lifting on the Vallejo? It covered beautifully when I did Jules, but I could just rub the stuff off with light handling after it dried.
 

Obi-Shinobi

Pioneer, Damn It!
Apr 6, 2011
2,370
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York, PA
Not a fan of the character, but he looks very good... especially for a first custom paint job.

Sealing paint -

I have never had a problem with paint rubbing off, even on the softer vinyl parts. I use Tamiya and Citadel paints 99.9% of the time, but I think the key is "cure time". Paint it, and leave it alone for several hours (I tend to wait 6-8 hrs) before any heavy handling or posing. If you can do this, the paint will fully cure, turning very hard and slick. Don't get me wrong though... you might still get some "rub" depending on where it is, but from my experience - bare minimum.

Just my 3 cents.
 
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Meddatron

I am what I am
Apr 19, 2011
11,383
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York, Pa
s1193.photobucket.com
Not a fan of the character, but he looks very good... especially for a first custom paint job.

Sealing paint -

I have never had a problem with paint rubbing off, even on the softer vinyl parts. I use Tamiya and Citadel paints 99.9% of the time, but I think the key is "cure time". If you can paint it, and leave it alone for several hours (I tend to wait 6-8 hrs) before any heavy handling or posing. If you can do this, the paint will fully cure, turning very hard and slick. Don't get me wrong though... you might still get some "rub" depending on where it is, but from my experience - bare minimum.

Just my 3 cents.

I agree, paint gets harder over time, especially when not in a humid room. I always give my figures at least a full 24 hours to cure when its a full figure paint job. Trim, I wait 2-3 hours before picking up to apply paint again.
 

K-Tiger

All solutions are final.
Founder
Mar 14, 2011
31,266
190
63
I just think Model Master is better paint than Vallejo. ;)