Modern ARAH Law
- Thread starter Falcone
- Start date
Well, half the figure is factory paint. I did not touch the legs or arms on this figure.
Yeah, but the vest, torso and sleeves aren't, and knowing how big of a pain red is to paint, you did a very good job.
Man I wish a correct colored vest and tshirt torso would come along so I could make a paintless Law...
Nice job man...like CS said, red is not an easy color to deal with
Nice job man...like CS said, red is not an easy color to deal with
It only took about 8 layers.
...And I have no patience for painting more than 2 layers.
Looks good, but can you work on the elbow/wrist joints to get them to fit together a little tighter? They're a tad "showy" right now.
Jesse has a perfect helmet in white, but they are out of stock right now.
They aren't even really attached right now. The joints don't fit. His arms just hang there, he can't even hold a gun right now.
all reds. i paint for a living.. red and yellows are bad news. and whites depending what you are going over.
anyway, i been tellin g the secret since 08. for reds, you want to use a gray first. darker gray for darker red, lighter gray for lighter red. white for certain yellows, and light gray for certain yellows. white, you need it white first. usually depending on the quality of the paint. but a white primer usually works for less coats of white.
now you know, and that is the only painting tip i will release. i need to work, and letting out industry secrets takes work away from me.
anyway, i been tellin g the secret since 08. for reds, you want to use a gray first. darker gray for darker red, lighter gray for lighter red. white for certain yellows, and light gray for certain yellows. white, you need it white first. usually depending on the quality of the paint. but a white primer usually works for less coats of white.
now you know, and that is the only painting tip i will release. i need to work, and letting out industry secrets takes work away from me.
and regardless, with or without a gray underneath. you will end up with the same amount of coats of paint. say you do 6 coats of red, til it covers, but may be blotchy at some areas.
but say you do two coats of gray, and then say it takes 3 coats of red, the red will be uniformed, but when you count how many coats you put on, it's usually close to each other. but the gray then red will make it uniformed, and no blotches. reds and yellows and whites all all blotchy paint. the pigment seems to not spread that well, and when you to spread it, it becomes clear. kind of like cum, its thick in the middle, but surrounded by clear. you got the point?
but it is the best way with those colors to use the right underlying color first to have a uniformed paint job.
but say you do two coats of gray, and then say it takes 3 coats of red, the red will be uniformed, but when you count how many coats you put on, it's usually close to each other. but the gray then red will make it uniformed, and no blotches. reds and yellows and whites all all blotchy paint. the pigment seems to not spread that well, and when you to spread it, it becomes clear. kind of like cum, its thick in the middle, but surrounded by clear. you got the point?
but it is the best way with those colors to use the right underlying color first to have a uniformed paint job.
I used Citadel blood red for the shirt. I used Reaper Minis paint on the vest, a brand I've never used before. I painted the vest off the body and to get it back on I had to bend, twist, and stretch it. I had no paint come off the vest while doing that.
yeah i dont know about any paints other than model masters, but i will say that, that brand seems to bite to the softer plastics or rubbers extremely well. it's the hard plastics where it could scrape off.
me either, i was just trying to give you a visual discription, lol.. it worked didnt it?
