Any paint you'd use on a figure would work fine, as are all preparatory procedures (washing the parts, et cetera).
So stick with acrylic paints, though I've done some gnarly weapon repaints with Krylon Fusion spray paints.
Acrylics are water-soluble paints. Easy to work with and clean up, the trade off is they aren't exactly durable. Keep in mind NOTHING you can buy is gonna work like the paints the factory uses.
The reason you want to stay away from enamels is they have the tendency to never dry completely. They'll always have a stickiness to them. Bottles will generally be clearly marked as to what type a paint it is.
Back to acrylics, what kind you get is up to you. Some fellas here swear by Citadel (generally only gonna find those in a gaming or proper hobby store) and/or Tamiya (likewise) Testors Model Master tends to be a little more available, but you may find the available color pallet limited.
Personally I just use the cheap Walmart stuff. Lots of folks hate them, as they take a little bit of work to to use effectively. The other stuff is more expensive, but a bit more forgiving.
I'd go down to Wally and grab a few of those and some cheap brushes and do some practice first.
thanks, but I am really just starting out, so what kind of paint do you use on figs? I also know nothing about washing or anything else. please help
AJ
You definately want to learn drybrushing http://www.how-to-paint-miniatures.com/miniature_painting_drybrushing.html . what that is is dip your brush into the paint, wipe almost all off onto a napkin and than gently brush over and over on the part you want. you will notice a little bit of paint rubs off onto the raised surfaces with each stroke, but not in the recesses. practice makes perfect on this for how much paint to wipe off the brush.
A wash http://www.how-to-paint-miniatures.com/miniature_advanced_painting_blackwash.html is the opposite, mix your color (usually darker than object) with water untill very thinnned out. Brush wetly over the area, the paint will fill into the recesses but not on the surfaces. some drybrushing may be required when done to clean up some areas.
As always, allow all paints to completely dry before starting next coats.
No problem man, I would do details and touch ups last. Kinda work from lowest points to highest points.
Rust is a paint application. i usually use matallic base, dark brown wash, orange drybrush followed by a very fine black drybrush. You could probably sprinkle a fine powder (don't overdo it) into the wash as its drying to give a gritty look. The paint should attach it as it dries. There are probably many different techniques for rust.