Does anybody know how to remove night adder or storm riders arm tattoos, without having to repaint the parts?
Removing tattoos
- Thread starter flint-wo2
- Start date
I've heard eraser removes logos and such from Joes. I've never tried it before, but I asked over at HT a year or so back, and that's what they told me.
They also said it could ruin the gloss on the figure as well. Leaving a mark that you can see it was altered. Someone suggested that the rubbing your finger on it right after could diminish the effect. Something about the oils in your skin or something.
I'm sure someone more experience can come in here and verify or give better (seasoned) advice.
They also said it could ruin the gloss on the figure as well. Leaving a mark that you can see it was altered. Someone suggested that the rubbing your finger on it right after could diminish the effect. Something about the oils in your skin or something.
I'm sure someone more experience can come in here and verify or give better (seasoned) advice.
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I've removed Resolute SE's ninja tat with a small bit of lacquer thinner on a q-tip. A VERY small bit. And then make sure that you wipe it all up with a dry q-tip.
Thanks guys I will try that.
Is night adders skin black plastic?
You would have to paint-match if you can't polish the affected plastic. Chemicals like lacquer thinner make the plastic dull, removes shine.
I also boil the figure I want to remove paint from. Hot paint is weaker it seems or its because the plastic is more flexible or the hot water aids in removal. not sure why it is but paint seems to come off way easier when it is hot.
Most paints don't truly bond to any surface. They merely dry and remain in place because of the vacuum that has formed. Subjecting the paint to heat destabilizes the molecules, which releases the vacuum.
You can use nail polish remover (the kind with acetone), but I recommend doing it by a sink with running water. The reason is that you want to rub the spot with acetone for only brief periods of time (10-15 seconds), put the figure under water and rinse before it starts eating at the plastic, dry it off and start the process over. This is the safest method using acetone in which you don't have to worry about it eating the plastic.
Another method is to use very very fine sand paper. I use 800 grit and it seems to work fine without marring the plastic.
Another method is to use very very fine sand paper. I use 800 grit and it seems to work fine without marring the plastic.
ttt recomends, rubbing alc, and elbow grease, many recomend nail polish remover with acetone, i have this stuff called desolv-it. it worked well on the softer plastic with some elbow grease,( cleaned roc zartans face right up,he became a joe right after) i tried it on the harder plastic, but was becoming to much of a chore and it wasn't worth it to further on because i wasn't really trying to remove it other than just to see if it would work..
I have used BRASSO in the past...but it takes some elbow grease....basically BRASSO is liquid polish for sliver and brass...you put some on a Q-tip and polish away the logo or tat. I have had varying degrees of success pending on the color and the plastic the part is made out of.
just note, if you do use desolv-it, make sure you dont get it on your skin and wash right away if you do, it is natural, but contains a cancerous agent.
Toothpicks are far too fat and blunt for the tight crevices that require a sharp metal tool.
if you say so. i use toothpicks for everything. toothpick with some paint remover, and it works, using a blade will just cut. scarape, and and make the subject unatural.
I've used denatured alcohol. You can find it in the paint section in Wal-Mart.
It won't melt the plastic like acetone. It will leave a slight foggy spot, but I usually just rub the figure with natural oils from your skin afterwards. If rubbing it with your hands won't work, you may need to add just a little oil from your face. Sounds gross, but that usually fixes it for me. If it grosses you out, you can always wash the figure later, but for some reason, this is some weird fix that I've found that works, and it's cheap.
I think Storm Rider's tats are on top of painted flesh, though. So that'd take off the factory flesh paint down to the underlying black plastic.
Certain colors come off much easier than others. Usually black tattoos come off pretty easily from the Hasbro factory flesh plastic.
It won't melt the plastic like acetone. It will leave a slight foggy spot, but I usually just rub the figure with natural oils from your skin afterwards. If rubbing it with your hands won't work, you may need to add just a little oil from your face. Sounds gross, but that usually fixes it for me. If it grosses you out, you can always wash the figure later, but for some reason, this is some weird fix that I've found that works, and it's cheap.
I think Storm Rider's tats are on top of painted flesh, though. So that'd take off the factory flesh paint down to the underlying black plastic.
Certain colors come off much easier than others. Usually black tattoos come off pretty easily from the Hasbro factory flesh plastic.
I actually removed another Tunnel Rat's arm camo this weekend. I used an X-acto to scrape off most of it, then very fine sandpaper to clean it up. Those arms (Hasbro "white flesh" plastic) tend to scrape off fairly well, though.
i used paint thinner and did the same thing, it was cloudy, but rubeed it with my finger and it was shiney