You can get a bench top injection molder for about 1500-1700 bucks. Them you need to learn or find someone to do your 3d designs. Then like Falcone said to get the actual mold made on a CNC cost a lot of money.
Is casting expensive to get into?
- Thread starter G.I.*EDDIE
- Start date
You can get a bench top injection molder for about 1500-1700 bucks. Them you need to learn or find someone to do your 3d designs. Then like Falcone said to get the actual mold made on a CNC cost a lot of money.
You know, I didn't get the joke until I read V's comment below...but dang, that was fantastic MW!
MR said:
That guy ^^ just gets me...
Yeah it sounds like a big waste of money compared to how much molding and casting costs doing it the way that Jesse, and I are already doing.
Hey Eddie, casting isn't nearly as hard or tough as I thought. Youv'e seen my first casting stuff for the MULE, its the first time I tried it and yes there were a few bubbles. That was easily fixed with a little bit of filler. The most imprortant thing I learned to do is vent holes and the way I set my mold pieces in. Everything came out ok but now I can make it better.
Its not as expensive as everyone is saying. The kit that I got was 80 bucks and thats it. Alumilite was the kit I got from Hobbytown USA.
I let it sit for a week or two cause I was intimidated by complexity...fucking fear holds you back from alot of things eh?...it wasn't hard at all. Watch StarWarsGeeks tutorial on how to make the molds cause that's the most important part I think. Mixing the resin and pouring it wasn't that hard at all, just make sure you pour the mixture fairly quickly cause it sets fast.
Knowing you had recently just gave it a go, I was hoping you'd chime in...especially after seeing how nice your first try came out...
Thanks!
Thanks!
No problem dude, I need to refine the pouring the resin part. You need to pour FAIRLY fast, but not so fast that you creat cavites or large bubbles. The resin that was in the Alumilite kit was fast set stuff, but in SWG's video he pours very slowly cause he uses a slow set resin. Probably better as there would be less cavities. Again there wasn't alot of them but there were some.
It me all the resin before I mixed it right. You see in the photo's of my castings in the MULE thread that they are different colors, until the end where they were comming out alot better. Getting the amount right, for some reason, I didnt get it until the end either.
Now I have to wait for a month or so to cast again because I don't want just a little bit of supplies. I'm hooked and I realy want to cast one of my vehicles before christmas....a 1lb jar of moulding material is about $100. The resin, depends on what kind, is about $120 for a couple of liters.(1/2gal)
Its not cheap but worth it if you get what you want. For me mabey 10 or 15 MRAPs.
It me all the resin before I mixed it right. You see in the photo's of my castings in the MULE thread that they are different colors, until the end where they were comming out alot better. Getting the amount right, for some reason, I didnt get it until the end either.
Now I have to wait for a month or so to cast again because I don't want just a little bit of supplies. I'm hooked and I realy want to cast one of my vehicles before christmas....a 1lb jar of moulding material is about $100. The resin, depends on what kind, is about $120 for a couple of liters.(1/2gal)
Its not cheap but worth it if you get what you want. For me mabey 10 or 15 MRAPs.
This post is nearly a year old but I would like to put my 2 cents in.
I use big molds so I have never had a chance to use a pressure pot.
I have worked things out were do not have to.
To start up will cost you about $100.
I use Smooth on products. You can buy quart sizes to gallon sized.
I have bought 5 gallon buckets of the RTV ( room temperature vulcanizing ) rubber.
This is your best put for a starter kit. I have used micro mart resin and it is top shelf.
Complete Resin Casting Starter Set
Tips on making molds and casting.
1. I use Legos for my mold boxes and 1/4 plywood to cap the rubber pours off. This helps when using rubber bands so as not to warp the moulds .
2. Use clay or masking tape to hold object to be cast firm .
3. Place lego blocks around piece to make pour box. Make sure you have about 1" space around object.
4. I use OOMOO RTV from Smooth on. It is simple 1 to 1 mix and is forgiving .Fallow direction on containers.
5. When pouring I use those metal handel throw away brushes and paint the object with the RTV. This insure that you do not get air bubbles on the face of the object..
6. the allowed time turn part over take off tape or clay and make sure the part is secure in the mould. Paint with mold release stack more legos then pout the other part. This is the mold release I use and so far it works the best.
Rubber-to-Rubber Mold Release, 2 fl. oz.
It comes with your Micro mark starter kit.
The resin that come with the kit is the slow set. It says that it sets in 30 mins. To be safe give it an hour.
7. When you make your mould try to lay out the parts like you want to pour the. Making sure that the resin will flow to the separate parts.
I FORGOT WHEN YOU MAKE THE FIRST HALF OF THE MOULD I LIKE TO CARCE DIVIT IN THE 1" SURROUND ABOUT EVERY HALF INCH OR SO AROUND. THIS WILL GIVE YOU ALIGHN MENT PINS IN YOUR SECOND HALF OF THE MOULD.
I cut slots in both halves so I get pouring vents .
8. When pouring resin it is important to NOT OVER MIX . This will cause you resin to get hot which will make your resin froth up.
I usually use little clear plastic cups ( Dixie ) . They have ridges on the side making it easier to measure. I mix about 10 seconds and then start pouring.
HERE IS THE TRICKY PART.
Mix the resin then use you throw away brush to paint inside the mold ( part details ) then rubber band the halves together and pour in the resin till it overflows.
Work as fast as you can.
The biggest mold I have made was the Tiger mold it is about 6 inches thick16 inches wide and about 20 inches tall.
That is a lot of rubber !!
I hope this helps. But the best way to learn is trail and error. But it is best to spend a few hours with someone to see how things work.
I use big molds so I have never had a chance to use a pressure pot.
I have worked things out were do not have to.
To start up will cost you about $100.
I use Smooth on products. You can buy quart sizes to gallon sized.
I have bought 5 gallon buckets of the RTV ( room temperature vulcanizing ) rubber.
This is your best put for a starter kit. I have used micro mart resin and it is top shelf.
Complete Resin Casting Starter Set
Tips on making molds and casting.
1. I use Legos for my mold boxes and 1/4 plywood to cap the rubber pours off. This helps when using rubber bands so as not to warp the moulds .
2. Use clay or masking tape to hold object to be cast firm .
3. Place lego blocks around piece to make pour box. Make sure you have about 1" space around object.
4. I use OOMOO RTV from Smooth on. It is simple 1 to 1 mix and is forgiving .Fallow direction on containers.
5. When pouring I use those metal handel throw away brushes and paint the object with the RTV. This insure that you do not get air bubbles on the face of the object..
6. the allowed time turn part over take off tape or clay and make sure the part is secure in the mould. Paint with mold release stack more legos then pout the other part. This is the mold release I use and so far it works the best.
Rubber-to-Rubber Mold Release, 2 fl. oz.
It comes with your Micro mark starter kit.
The resin that come with the kit is the slow set. It says that it sets in 30 mins. To be safe give it an hour.
7. When you make your mould try to lay out the parts like you want to pour the. Making sure that the resin will flow to the separate parts.
I FORGOT WHEN YOU MAKE THE FIRST HALF OF THE MOULD I LIKE TO CARCE DIVIT IN THE 1" SURROUND ABOUT EVERY HALF INCH OR SO AROUND. THIS WILL GIVE YOU ALIGHN MENT PINS IN YOUR SECOND HALF OF THE MOULD.
I cut slots in both halves so I get pouring vents .
8. When pouring resin it is important to NOT OVER MIX . This will cause you resin to get hot which will make your resin froth up.
I usually use little clear plastic cups ( Dixie ) . They have ridges on the side making it easier to measure. I mix about 10 seconds and then start pouring.
HERE IS THE TRICKY PART.
Mix the resin then use you throw away brush to paint inside the mold ( part details ) then rubber band the halves together and pour in the resin till it overflows.
Work as fast as you can.
The biggest mold I have made was the Tiger mold it is about 6 inches thick16 inches wide and about 20 inches tall.
That is a lot of rubber !!
I hope this helps. But the best way to learn is trail and error. But it is best to spend a few hours with someone to see how things work.
This post is nearly a year old but I would like to put my 2 cents in.
I use big molds so I have never had a chance to use a pressure pot.
I have worked things out were do not have to.
To start up will cost you about $100.
I use Smooth on products. You can buy quart sizes to gallon sized.
I have bought 5 gallon buckets of the RTV ( room temperature vulcanizing ) rubber.
This is your best put for a starter kit. I have used micro mart resin and it is top shelf.
Complete Resin Casting Starter Set
Tips on making molds and casting.
1. I use Legos for my mold boxes and 1/4 plywood to cap the rubber pours off. This helps when using rubber bands so as not to warp the moulds .
2. Use clay or masking tape to hold object to be cast firm .
3. Place lego blocks around piece to make pour box. Make sure you have about 1" space around object.
4. I use OOMOO RTV from Smooth on. It is simple 1 to 1 mix and is forgiving .Fallow direction on containers.
5. When pouring I use those metal handel throw away brushes and paint the object with the RTV. This insure that you do not get air bubbles on the face of the object..
6. the allowed time turn part over take off tape or clay and make sure the part is secure in the mould. Paint with mold release stack more legos then pout the other part. This is the mold release I use and so far it works the best.
Rubber-to-Rubber Mold Release, 2 fl. oz.
It comes with your Micro mark starter kit.
The resin that come with the kit is the slow set. It says that it sets in 30 mins. To be safe give it an hour.
7. When you make your mould try to lay out the parts like you want to pour the. Making sure that the resin will flow to the separate parts.
I FORGOT WHEN YOU MAKE THE FIRST HALF OF THE MOULD I LIKE TO CARCE DIVIT IN THE 1" SURROUND ABOUT EVERY HALF INCH OR SO AROUND. THIS WILL GIVE YOU ALIGHN MENT PINS IN YOUR SECOND HALF OF THE MOULD.
I cut slots in both halves so I get pouring vents .
8. When pouring resin it is important to NOT OVER MIX . This will cause you resin to get hot which will make your resin froth up.
I usually use little clear plastic cups ( Dixie ) . They have ridges on the side making it easier to measure. I mix about 10 seconds and then start pouring.
HERE IS THE TRICKY PART.
Mix the resin then use you throw away brush to paint inside the mold ( part details ) then rubber band the halves together and pour in the resin till it overflows.
Work as fast as you can.
The biggest mold I have made was the Tiger mold it is about 6 inches thick16 inches wide and about 20 inches tall.
That is a lot of rubber !!
I hope this helps. But the best way to learn is trail and error. But it is best to spend a few hours with someone to see how things work.
I use big molds so I have never had a chance to use a pressure pot.
I have worked things out were do not have to.
To start up will cost you about $100.
I use Smooth on products. You can buy quart sizes to gallon sized.
I have bought 5 gallon buckets of the RTV ( room temperature vulcanizing ) rubber.
This is your best put for a starter kit. I have used micro mart resin and it is top shelf.
Complete Resin Casting Starter Set
Tips on making molds and casting.
1. I use Legos for my mold boxes and 1/4 plywood to cap the rubber pours off. This helps when using rubber bands so as not to warp the moulds .
2. Use clay or masking tape to hold object to be cast firm .
3. Place lego blocks around piece to make pour box. Make sure you have about 1" space around object.
4. I use OOMOO RTV from Smooth on. It is simple 1 to 1 mix and is forgiving .Fallow direction on containers.
5. When pouring I use those metal handel throw away brushes and paint the object with the RTV. This insure that you do not get air bubbles on the face of the object..
6. the allowed time turn part over take off tape or clay and make sure the part is secure in the mould. Paint with mold release stack more legos then pout the other part. This is the mold release I use and so far it works the best.
Rubber-to-Rubber Mold Release, 2 fl. oz.
It comes with your Micro mark starter kit.
The resin that come with the kit is the slow set. It says that it sets in 30 mins. To be safe give it an hour.
7. When you make your mould try to lay out the parts like you want to pour the. Making sure that the resin will flow to the separate parts.
I FORGOT WHEN YOU MAKE THE FIRST HALF OF THE MOULD I LIKE TO CARCE DIVIT IN THE 1" SURROUND ABOUT EVERY HALF INCH OR SO AROUND. THIS WILL GIVE YOU ALIGHN MENT PINS IN YOUR SECOND HALF OF THE MOULD.
I cut slots in both halves so I get pouring vents .
8. When pouring resin it is important to NOT OVER MIX . This will cause you resin to get hot which will make your resin froth up.
I usually use little clear plastic cups ( Dixie ) . They have ridges on the side making it easier to measure. I mix about 10 seconds and then start pouring.
HERE IS THE TRICKY PART.
Mix the resin then use you throw away brush to paint inside the mold ( part details ) then rubber band the halves together and pour in the resin till it overflows.
Work as fast as you can.
The biggest mold I have made was the Tiger mold it is about 6 inches thick16 inches wide and about 20 inches tall.
That is a lot of rubber !!
I hope this helps. But the best way to learn is trail and error. But it is best to spend a few hours with someone to see how things work.