RGB for OD army shade 107
- Thread starter Falcone
- Start date
http://web.forret.com/tools/color.asp?RGB=6B8E23&name=Olive+drab
Maybe play around with the values until you get one you like.
Maybe play around with the values until you get one you like.
Thanks but I already have the RGB for olive drab (107.142.35). I'm looking for the Army's color "shade 107" which if the shade of olive used on fatigues in Vietnam. All pictures I've seen of Vietnam clothes are darker than olive drab. I've been messing around with colors in Photoshop to get one I like, but I'd like to know what the actual RGB color is.
I couldn't tell you.
The important point is they sure as hell didn't stay at 107 in the field long.
That site I linked to wit hthe RGB values of 107-150-90 is getting close to what OD utilities would have looked like.
The important point is they sure as hell didn't stay at 107 in the field long.
That site I linked to wit hthe RGB values of 107-150-90 is getting close to what OD utilities would have looked like.
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Yeah, all the wear in the field. I will probably just end up using dark olive green and be done with it.
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Retouching on this subject. I have 3 new colors, which I got from various sources. I cannot decide what to use. Looking at Vietnam pictures is impossible, since the pictures are so old and don't have true colors. Not to mention in group shots, all uniforms are different because of fading and wear. The sculpture sheet was made by Livevil for Mangler, I used it to get a better idea what the colors look like when applied to a uniform.
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Pantone (PMS) values would be the only true color matching system as all RGB values vary depending on monitors. You'd need a Pantone color first, and then break it down to a CMYK or RGB value.
I'd say your best bet is to guess, unfortunately.
I'd say your best bet is to guess, unfortunately.
What do you guys think? Does the color in the middle look about right? The reason I'm being so picky and persistent and not just settling on something in the ballpark is because this could potentially involve something big down the pipeline.
Forgot to add. I couldn't find anything close in pantone on Photoshop to the colors attached in my last post. None of the greens had enough blue in them.
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It appears that he is going to be making some Vietnam figures in the ARAH style. I'm attempting that myself, so it's pretty cool seeing this. A little retooling of an '85 Shipwreck torso makes a good jungle jacket. A friend of mine has removed the buttons on the shirt, as well as the seam across the shoulders on the back, and is working on changing out the pockets for the slash pockets on the jacket. I'm working on the web gear and rucks. If I'm right, I would love to see somebody else's interpretation of a US GI in Nam in that figure format.
I am a full blown o-ring junkie for only one reason... I am familiar with them. When the 25th line was first introduced, I thought they looked amazing, still do actually. And I was excited because I was just getting in to collecting and I was going to be able to start at the beginning. But when I popped open my first couple of figures, I felt like I was going to break them just posing them the first time. And half of what I have opened have bad ankle joints and the figures will not stand up, even on their stand. So I went back to the o-ring figures. Yes, they lack a lot of articulation, and yes they look like 7 year olds standing next to the new figures, but they are what I grew up with and I still like them.
I love the new stuff a lot, but O-ring is still my true love. Just something about them feels right. I just with they had ankle and wrist articulation!
Ditto. I love seeing the new sculpt customs, and dios with the new sculpts... I just can't fiddle with them with my ape-like hands. The carded figures I've opened were all stiff as hell, and the joints are so thin that I'm afraid to try to loosen them up. The figures I've got from vehicle packs on the other hand were all loose and I've got a figure from the 25th F.A.N.G. that you can't pose because his joints are too loose. Makes a great dead trooper, but that's about it. I don't feel like I'm going to break the 0-ring figures unless I intend to. Excepts maybe their thumbs...
I just wish I had the balls to hack them up and give them wrist articulation. Ankles would be nice, but a wrist would be flippen awesome.
That's pretty much the same setup I use. I use a variety of arms for variations in sleeve rolling. I'm using the Shipwreck torso for the OG-107 shirts. I've shaved the buttons off of a Shipwreck torso, and I am currently working on shaving off the pockets and sculpting the slanted pockets for a jungle jacket. I use the same waist, but sculpt on the M-56 pouches. I am retooling the M-1 helmets from the Sgt. Savage line to include the helmet covers and chin straps, and remove the helmet liner strap. I'm also trying to wrap my brain around a sculpt for a lightweight rucksack that would be modular for variations in frame mounting and equipment being carried. I'm having a blast with it, I just don't have a lot of time to work on it. I enjoy seeing what you come up with, and when I get to a point when I have more than just a bunch of half built pieces, I will post up some pics as well.
I would like to see them when finished. The Action Soldier head I have here is just a place holder. I'm planning on either using the Sgt Savage helmet or a 21st helmet. But I think the 21st helmet's would be difficult to find a head to fit on. And my other concern is that the Sgt Savage helmets might be a bit too big.
The Vietnam steel pots from 21st Century Toys was my first thought. I got a figure from eBay and tried it, but it was way, WAY too small. The Sgt. Savage helmets are too big. But... they look right on the heads. The problem is these toy helmets don't have a realistic liner with suspension system. Some thin strips of gs or Aves in the pattern of the suspension system fixes the problem and the helmets fit fine. The M-1 shells were not skin tight on the head, and the over sizing of the Savage helmets with something to help it keep from sliding around on the head makes them look spot on to me. Hell, if you were not concerned about anybody ever seeing the inside of the helmet, a speck of sticky-tac would do the trick as well.
I know ARAH heads are huge, but I think they still look most good on those bodies. I really dislike how the smaller heads of the ARAH comic packs look. Some of them were good, but a lot look off.
Use the color on the far left. Faded OG-107 fatigues can have almost a greyish tint to them. But then, it depended on the manufacturer and the pattern. I have a closet full of jungle fatigues and there are two distinct color tones and they definitely fade differently.
None of the colors you presented are very close to brand new jungles. I have some that are a very sharp OD (like the color of Vietnam era helicopters) and others that are a dark green.
The photo you have is actually very accurate. You can get very crisp photos from Vietnam that were done by professional photographers using the best cameras available. You're right, the old Instamatic photos are washed out but Tim Page and photographers like him took very crisp, vivid photos that are better than digital.
