I'll take pics next time I paint something.
Part 1:
Basecoat:
Basecoat is really easy if you use the right paints in the correct manner. I strongly encourage the use of Tamiya spray paint even thought it seems pricey and is fairly hard to find. You will need to call your local hobby shops to see if they carry it. I only use Tamiya because it is a Lacquer spray which means it dries in under 5 minutes and is as tough as the paint on your car. It also allows you to weather on top of it without any fear of removing the basecoat.
Spraying tips: Unless it's above 70 and the can is warm, I recommend setting the can in warm water for a few minutes to get it at optimum flow temp. If it's too hot, the paint comes out too fast and if too cold, it can spit blotches out. Take it out of the water and swirl the ball around the bottom of the can far 30sec or so, DO NOT SHAKE the can up and down.
Spray in very light coats with the can about 12" away. Do not hold the button down spraying like a madman until you see color. You will be surprised to find that as it dries, the color just appears. 4 light coats will cover most surfaces and it will look like the plastic is molded in that color, not painted because the panel lines will not be filled with extra paint. This is another reason I prefer Tamiya Lacquer.
Always test spray away from the model before each coat.
Always paint in lines starting before the model and ending after the model. Try not to hold the button down while going back and forth, it does waste a lot of paint. I usually paint the vertical sides first, then the top with each coat. Make sure you pick up the model and inspect between coats to see how the paint is going on and spots that are being missed.
2 of the small cans should paint a PzIII.
Always buy 1 small bottle of Tamiya acrylic in the matching color of the spray for touch ups, etc. Also needed for weathering.
Part 2:
After the basecoat is completed, you can begin the weathering process. I prefer to do my washes before painting detail parts because the wash will remove it.
Wash:
You always want to wash with a darker color than the basecoat to add depth to the panel lines. I always use acrylic paints for the wash since they can be thinned with water or alcohol and can be wiped off if needed. If you want an anime style, then use black paint as a wash, for subtle realism, use the same color as the basecoat and mix it with black until it is substantially darker than the original color. Raw Umber by Model Masters also works well for a dirty wash.
To make a wash, you fill a shot glass with water or 71% rubbing alcohol and then drip paint until it makes it dirty. One dip of the paintbrush in the paint and rinsed in the alcohol should be plenty. If it’s too strong of a color, you are just painting, it should look like a mild water color paint when the brush is wiped on a paper towel. I prefer alcohol because it dries faster, but water is a bit more forgiving and easier to clean off. You will want a large (up to .5†wide) brush with soft bristles that soak up the paint for this job.
I start at the top of the model and work my way down. Make sure all crevices and surfaces are covered with the wash because it will be noticeable later. With something as large as a 1:18 tank, I like to do the turret, then dab off the excess with a paper towel or old T-shirt before moving to the hull. Be mindful of the wash running down the sides and make sure to smooth out these drips immediately because once they start drying, it will look like a big drip and be much harder to correct. Many will not dab the excess off and just let it dry, but I like the way it turns out better when dabbed somewhat dry, avoiding drips and puddles that are not to scale.
Part 3:
Dry-brushing
Dry-brushing is even easier than doing the wash (and a much smaller mess), but beginners tend to over do it most of the time. Once again I use acrylics to brush with, but this time you will want a stiff brush that does not hold paint well. I use these crappy round brushes from Walmart’s craft section that have short, stiff bristles and are about a ¼†in diameter for $1.
To dry-brush, you dip the tip of the brush into the paint and then wipe as much off as possible onto a paper towel. You then feather the brush over the raised surfaces as if dusting for fingerprints, very lightly. It is impossible to tell you what the right amount of paint is, so grab an old model or figure and just start experimenting. Trust me, you will know when you get it right.
I dry-brush with 3 colors now for a very realistic look. First I use the basecoat color mixed with 50% white for a faded paint look. I do this brushing over the entire model on all raised surfaces and edges to enhance the depth that the wash created. I then place some stray brush strokes on flat surfaces to balance it out. The second color I brush with is a Tamiya Metallic Gray or Gunmetal. This is done on surfaces that would be worn from use like hatches, tool boxes and handgrips. Do not use a bright silvery color because it really stands out and destroys the worn look. Think of the dark metal where the paint is worn off at a playground jungle gym. The third color is Model Master’s Rust. Be very careful with using rust because it does not seem to show itself fully until dry and too much looks awful, especially in the sun or under a camera flash. Rust should be placed around the areas you used the metal color, but are not subjected to daily use. Tank tracks DO NOT rust unless they are sitting outside without moving for a long time.
Once you are finished with your wash and dry-brushing, it is smart to protect your work with a coat of clear lacquer. I use 2 or 3 coats of Tamiya Clear Dull for this purpose. Once the clear lacquer is applied, you will not be able to correct any mistakes made earlier, so make sure you have examined your model before finalizing it. I usually leave it unprotected for a few days and handle it a lot to make sure I like it and the frequent handling is almost a weathering step on it’s own.
Part 4
Finishing Touches
Once the clear coat is dry, you can start painting the detail parts. This is when you paint the periscope lenses, molded-on tools, headlights, etc. Once again, use acrylic paints so you can wipe any mistakes off with a wet paper towel. After your detail painting is completed, give your model a few more coats of clear dull to protect it.
At this point, it’s up to you to decide when to stop painting. You can add mud, snow, dust, etc. I do not like to add a weather specific weathering to my RC tanks because it tends to look odd if it’s covered with snow while driving in the summer or caked in mud while driving in the snow. I just use Model Master’s Raw Umber in my airbrush for a nice dusty look and I concentrate it heavier at the bottom of the turret and the sides of the lower hull. Raw Umber looks like a few diapers I’ve changed and works well for this purpose. If you wanted a muddy tank, this is the stuff you would slather around the wheels and fenders. Fortunately for me, RC tanks tend to kick up dust, mud and road salt, weathering themselves to their current environment. For a great Desert colored dust, Tamiya Buff is the best I have found and is mentioned often if tutorials I have read. If you do not have an airbrush, you might be able to use a spray can of the appropriate color, just doing very light coats until the desired effect is achieved.
Practice makes perfect when it comes to weathering and I am nowhere near an expert. Every model I paint, I look for more tips and tricks to try out. The great thing about weathering is you are never really done and can always go back and add things to older models as you learn new things. Just always remember to protect your work with a clear lacquer at every major step once you are satisfied and ready to move to the next. Hopefully this write-up helps you take the leap into custom painting. Nothing adds to a model like weathering and there is no reason to pay someone to wash and brush it since these are very easy things to do. Obviously there is a lot more too weathering when the pros do about it, but you have plenty of time to sharpen your skills and constantly improve from these basic steps I have provided.
Part 1:
Basecoat:
Basecoat is really easy if you use the right paints in the correct manner. I strongly encourage the use of Tamiya spray paint even thought it seems pricey and is fairly hard to find. You will need to call your local hobby shops to see if they carry it. I only use Tamiya because it is a Lacquer spray which means it dries in under 5 minutes and is as tough as the paint on your car. It also allows you to weather on top of it without any fear of removing the basecoat.
Spraying tips: Unless it's above 70 and the can is warm, I recommend setting the can in warm water for a few minutes to get it at optimum flow temp. If it's too hot, the paint comes out too fast and if too cold, it can spit blotches out. Take it out of the water and swirl the ball around the bottom of the can far 30sec or so, DO NOT SHAKE the can up and down.
Spray in very light coats with the can about 12" away. Do not hold the button down spraying like a madman until you see color. You will be surprised to find that as it dries, the color just appears. 4 light coats will cover most surfaces and it will look like the plastic is molded in that color, not painted because the panel lines will not be filled with extra paint. This is another reason I prefer Tamiya Lacquer.
Always test spray away from the model before each coat.
Always paint in lines starting before the model and ending after the model. Try not to hold the button down while going back and forth, it does waste a lot of paint. I usually paint the vertical sides first, then the top with each coat. Make sure you pick up the model and inspect between coats to see how the paint is going on and spots that are being missed.
2 of the small cans should paint a PzIII.
Always buy 1 small bottle of Tamiya acrylic in the matching color of the spray for touch ups, etc. Also needed for weathering.
Part 2:
After the basecoat is completed, you can begin the weathering process. I prefer to do my washes before painting detail parts because the wash will remove it.
Wash:
You always want to wash with a darker color than the basecoat to add depth to the panel lines. I always use acrylic paints for the wash since they can be thinned with water or alcohol and can be wiped off if needed. If you want an anime style, then use black paint as a wash, for subtle realism, use the same color as the basecoat and mix it with black until it is substantially darker than the original color. Raw Umber by Model Masters also works well for a dirty wash.
To make a wash, you fill a shot glass with water or 71% rubbing alcohol and then drip paint until it makes it dirty. One dip of the paintbrush in the paint and rinsed in the alcohol should be plenty. If it’s too strong of a color, you are just painting, it should look like a mild water color paint when the brush is wiped on a paper towel. I prefer alcohol because it dries faster, but water is a bit more forgiving and easier to clean off. You will want a large (up to .5†wide) brush with soft bristles that soak up the paint for this job.
I start at the top of the model and work my way down. Make sure all crevices and surfaces are covered with the wash because it will be noticeable later. With something as large as a 1:18 tank, I like to do the turret, then dab off the excess with a paper towel or old T-shirt before moving to the hull. Be mindful of the wash running down the sides and make sure to smooth out these drips immediately because once they start drying, it will look like a big drip and be much harder to correct. Many will not dab the excess off and just let it dry, but I like the way it turns out better when dabbed somewhat dry, avoiding drips and puddles that are not to scale.
Part 3:
Dry-brushing
Dry-brushing is even easier than doing the wash (and a much smaller mess), but beginners tend to over do it most of the time. Once again I use acrylics to brush with, but this time you will want a stiff brush that does not hold paint well. I use these crappy round brushes from Walmart’s craft section that have short, stiff bristles and are about a ¼†in diameter for $1.
To dry-brush, you dip the tip of the brush into the paint and then wipe as much off as possible onto a paper towel. You then feather the brush over the raised surfaces as if dusting for fingerprints, very lightly. It is impossible to tell you what the right amount of paint is, so grab an old model or figure and just start experimenting. Trust me, you will know when you get it right.
I dry-brush with 3 colors now for a very realistic look. First I use the basecoat color mixed with 50% white for a faded paint look. I do this brushing over the entire model on all raised surfaces and edges to enhance the depth that the wash created. I then place some stray brush strokes on flat surfaces to balance it out. The second color I brush with is a Tamiya Metallic Gray or Gunmetal. This is done on surfaces that would be worn from use like hatches, tool boxes and handgrips. Do not use a bright silvery color because it really stands out and destroys the worn look. Think of the dark metal where the paint is worn off at a playground jungle gym. The third color is Model Master’s Rust. Be very careful with using rust because it does not seem to show itself fully until dry and too much looks awful, especially in the sun or under a camera flash. Rust should be placed around the areas you used the metal color, but are not subjected to daily use. Tank tracks DO NOT rust unless they are sitting outside without moving for a long time.
Once you are finished with your wash and dry-brushing, it is smart to protect your work with a coat of clear lacquer. I use 2 or 3 coats of Tamiya Clear Dull for this purpose. Once the clear lacquer is applied, you will not be able to correct any mistakes made earlier, so make sure you have examined your model before finalizing it. I usually leave it unprotected for a few days and handle it a lot to make sure I like it and the frequent handling is almost a weathering step on it’s own.
Part 4
Finishing Touches
Once the clear coat is dry, you can start painting the detail parts. This is when you paint the periscope lenses, molded-on tools, headlights, etc. Once again, use acrylic paints so you can wipe any mistakes off with a wet paper towel. After your detail painting is completed, give your model a few more coats of clear dull to protect it.
At this point, it’s up to you to decide when to stop painting. You can add mud, snow, dust, etc. I do not like to add a weather specific weathering to my RC tanks because it tends to look odd if it’s covered with snow while driving in the summer or caked in mud while driving in the snow. I just use Model Master’s Raw Umber in my airbrush for a nice dusty look and I concentrate it heavier at the bottom of the turret and the sides of the lower hull. Raw Umber looks like a few diapers I’ve changed and works well for this purpose. If you wanted a muddy tank, this is the stuff you would slather around the wheels and fenders. Fortunately for me, RC tanks tend to kick up dust, mud and road salt, weathering themselves to their current environment. For a great Desert colored dust, Tamiya Buff is the best I have found and is mentioned often if tutorials I have read. If you do not have an airbrush, you might be able to use a spray can of the appropriate color, just doing very light coats until the desired effect is achieved.
Practice makes perfect when it comes to weathering and I am nowhere near an expert. Every model I paint, I look for more tips and tricks to try out. The great thing about weathering is you are never really done and can always go back and add things to older models as you learn new things. Just always remember to protect your work with a clear lacquer at every major step once you are satisfied and ready to move to the next. Hopefully this write-up helps you take the leap into custom painting. Nothing adds to a model like weathering and there is no reason to pay someone to wash and brush it since these are very easy things to do. Obviously there is a lot more too weathering when the pros do about it, but you have plenty of time to sharpen your skills and constantly improve from these basic steps I have provided.
