[Request] Painting Camoflauge
- Thread starter NSA
- Start date
Stuff?
Figures and vehicles I suppose. I figured you could extrapolate it from figures to vehicles, but I guess flat vs curved surfaces do matter.
Figures and vehicles I suppose. I figured you could extrapolate it from figures to vehicles, but I guess flat vs curved surfaces do matter.
Well, I think the most important thing is to find pictures and study the scale of the pattern. I noticed a lot of models/figures/whatever are painted with the camo patterns too big.
Other than that, a good way to create correct scale masks is to use play dough or putty to mask off the base color, paint over, and then mask that, and paint the tertiary color.
Other than that, a good way to create correct scale masks is to use play dough or putty to mask off the base color, paint over, and then mask that, and paint the tertiary color.
Imo, the best advice is with the camo study the basic shapes of the different colors and about what % is what color
From that point just randomly apply paint in those splotches in similar shapes as the camo, but be random and don't try hard to do this, just clear your mind and just put the paint down. For me, when doing camo if I try hard to do it looks like shit, but if I just go with the flow it all works out in the end
From that point just randomly apply paint in those splotches in similar shapes as the camo, but be random and don't try hard to do this, just clear your mind and just put the paint down. For me, when doing camo if I try hard to do it looks like shit, but if I just go with the flow it all works out in the end
I look at a ton of pics of the camo I'm wanting to replicate and try to determine the ratio of the colors. I then try and determine which color to use as the base color (usually the color used most in the pattern and then add the remaining colors in descending order while trying to replicate the style of shapes used for the pattern.
Here's my most recent camo paint work and the first time I've attempted Woodland:
I hope that helps.
Here's my most recent camo paint work and the first time I've attempted Woodland:
I hope that helps.
Thanks, WW! I wound up using Testors Model Master Dark Green, a custom mixed brown, Israeli Armor Sand Gray and Testors Floquil NATO Tri-Color Black for the camo. Model Master Green Drab for the vest and gaiters.
For the brown I just mix any of Testors' black paints (just not gloss or semi-gloss black) with their Leather. I haven't found a dark brown paint in either their Model Master or Floquil line yet.
Awesome!!! I've got a few bottles of that dark green too(the color splotch looked like it was z-force green
)Now off to painting!
try reaper miniatures paints, or furmula P3, which are gaming paints so I know the hobbytown in murfreesboro doesn't have them. I usually get them on ebay though. Theres a good gaming store that was next to a hobbyshop in Nashville, and they had a ton of paints, especially Vallejo paint, I'll seee if I can figure out what the store is called, they'd have plenty of browns to choose from
for trains, they have some unique colors in their line up too, like the Z force green I use is from them, they have red oxide primer, pullman green(an excellent choice for olive drab on armor) and tons of other good colors, and very good quality
http://www.testors.com/category/133504/Floquil
Fuck. So many paints. The local store only carries some Model master stuff.. and Tamiya but I don't like Tamiya.
Grrr.
Grrr.
Awesome!!! I've got a few bottles of that dark green too(the color splotch looked like it was z-force green
Now off to painting!
Dude, I've learned that those splotches in stores and online that are suppose to show what the color looks like tend to be off. They hardly ever look like the samples. It's stupid, really.
WW hit on the Railroad line, but they also have a Military category within in the line:
http://www.testors.com/category/137611/Military_Model_&_Hobby_Acrylics
You can select different eras and countries in the blue highlighted box above the color samples.
Thanks, for the info!
Agreed, black, white, greys and tans to be the only colors that are close, although in store you can look inside the bottle and see the actual color.
I do have to say this though; Vallejo and Reaper do excellent at the color splotches though, I have yet to use a color that looks noticably different than the splotch
For woodland I use Testors model master acryl Dark Green, US Army/Marines Gulf Armor Sand, Leather, and Flat Black. For Desert, I use Sand, US Army/Marines Gulf Armor Sand, and Leather. I think you can also use Field Drab instead of the gulf armor sand.
woodland
Desert:
The most important thing: a good brush. This is vital. After that, just practice until you get a good technique down.
woodland
Desert:
The most important thing: a good brush. This is vital. After that, just practice until you get a good technique down.
I've only attempted bad camo for Joe figures, trying to replicate the vintage figures.
I may try my hand at realistic camo. The only one I've painted that was a huge pain in the ass was Ambush, and that's nowhere near a realistic paint job.
I may try my hand at realistic camo. The only one I've painted that was a huge pain in the ass was Ambush, and that's nowhere near a realistic paint job.
Here are some sites with camo-pattern:
*note: some of the more blocky patterns work in vehicles like "dazzle" painting on old warships. Like this:
- Camopedia
- List of Camouflage Patterns on Wikipedia
- http://www.kamouflage.net/
- Heavy Gear Camo Patterns
- Fox-Rich Camo Patterns*
*note: some of the more blocky patterns work in vehicles like "dazzle" painting on old warships. Like this:
If you and when you go the Hobby Shop; Scale Military Modeller International Magazine is also worth picking up. Especially a copy of one on modern armor. The owner there should have some laying around. The mag is from the UK and costs about 11.00 bucks; but the lessons learned about figs, vehicles, and dios in one issue, I felt were worth it.
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You can order from Testors online store and have it shipped to your house. They'll direct the order to the closest store that carries Testors products and have them fill the order for you. Paying for S&H might be cheaper than driving, and you'll be able to get any of the colors on Testors online store, as the store that's filling your order will order any paints they don't have to fill your order, and I believe Testors warehouse is in CA. So, it shouldn't take long to get your order whatever the circumstance may be.
I did a "How-to" about this on Hisstank.... linked below. You can apply the techniques to any color pattern you want to use. as CS mentioned, ratio is key. In some of my older work I feel I may have applied a little more black then what was called for. It gets easier the more you do it... trust me.
http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-joe-customs-general-discussion/35790-how-painting-camo.html
Although not requested, figured I would share it anyhow. A more recent, hand-painted digital camo with comparison to a drybrushed technique... Hand painting it was a little more time/labor intensive.
http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-joe-customs-works-progress/198046-hand-painted-digital-camo.html
http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-joe-customs-general-discussion/35790-how-painting-camo.html
Although not requested, figured I would share it anyhow. A more recent, hand-painted digital camo with comparison to a drybrushed technique... Hand painting it was a little more time/labor intensive.
http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-joe-customs-works-progress/198046-hand-painted-digital-camo.html
That crap? Heck, go Multi-Cam.
Clean them periodically with Windex while painting. I also thin my paint with Windex.
That crap? Heck, go with all black. That's what Ninja's use.
I'm sorry, was that another racist joke against latina house keepers??!! You never quit!!! :medalofhonor:
I really need to learn patience then.. I want to manhandle my men (huh huh Eddism!) almost immediately after I'm done coating them. I think I last maybe 30 seconds? Then I'm off doing the next thing to them. How long do you wait?
That whole paragraph was just way too
That whole paragraph was just way too
You can hit whatever you've just painted with a blow-dryer for about 20-30 seconds and then let it cool back off before adding the next layer, as painting on a hot surface doesn't work too well. If the blow-dryer has a "cool" setting you can flip that on and hit for another 10 seconds or so to help it cool off quicker.
The model masters seems to dry pretty quick on its own from my experience. Usually if I start painting a leg, by the time I finish with the other one the first has dried enough to handle.
Thankfully all my figures tend to be dirty as hell, so a good wash/drybrush masks a lot of my technical flaws
Thankfully all my figures tend to be dirty as hell, so a good wash/drybrush masks a lot of my technical flaws