On the Workbench
- Thread starter Midget
- Start date
Before I go any further shaping the handle, I'm wondering if I shouldn't send this off for casting. I reckon that should be doable after I get a couple of coats of varnish on there.
"Thank you sir, may I have another"
It just occured to me KT. Another possible method would be to find a scaled Oar and mod that. My kids have a set of Oars that came with a Lego off brand Pirate Ship (I think) that are long handled but if they were chopped would look just like a cricket bat.
This is the type of Oars my kids have. Came with a generic lego ship from Big Lots. The oars are about 6 inches long with a paddle of over 2 inches.
They are pretty close in shape. Although, I have never held a cricket bat, is the back side of the paddle rounded?
This is the type of Oars my kids have. Came with a generic lego ship from Big Lots. The oars are about 6 inches long with a paddle of over 2 inches.
They are pretty close in shape. Although, I have never held a cricket bat, is the back side of the paddle rounded?
Yup:
Antique bats seem to have a little less severe of a hump to them.
got ya. I thought that may have been the case. Just wasn't sure if all of them were that way, or if some were that way and some were not. My thought was rounded ones could be the aluminum bats of Cricket. lol.
Before I go any further shaping the handle, I'm wondering if I shouldn't send this off for casting. I reckon that should be doable after I get a couple of coats of varnish on there.
Oh my!...that looks nice!...not sure if it is a bit large or not (I think you may've mentioned that?) but it looks great with the beefier figure that is Retaliation RB...
Ohhhh, I like this! I'm curious at which point you dremeled the Sallah body to fit on the Joe and how that worked out.
Have you ever thought about designing a working Ab Crunch on a 1:18 torso? I know a lot of our stuff used vests (which would prohibit ab movement) but it's just a thought.
I'm back on the plane, again. Seat is out, the hole in the floor filled with balsa, and I ransacked a 1:18 Corvette gasser for parts so I can do some overhead instruments and gauges so the cockpit isn't so barren. I've got a pretty good idea were the seat should be, but I've got a couple of issues to work out before I make its installation a done deal.
I really need to get the Tunnel Rat parts here and modified to make sure I can get the pilot in and out without issue.
I really need to get the Tunnel Rat parts here and modified to make sure I can get the pilot in and out without issue.
Well, my design is going to have the chest articulation that just about everything has now and then a crunch articulation around the waist that sort of just repeats the chest articulation.
My blank model showed up today broken but it's still usable.
PS I have no clue why my pic is loading upside down.
PS I have no clue why my pic is loading upside down.
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So, it's divided into 3 segments. What I want to know is, is the bottom piece's top edge at a decent height or is it too high. I plan on using the same tooling on future sculpts and I need that top edge to be where the top edge of a belt would be.
I think you'd be better off with a hinged ab over this. Looks quite "wonky" on the bike, imo.
It looks better than no articulation when posing on a bike. I'm waiting on the sculpted version to show up before I make a final decision. This was essentially boxes with the articulation. It's going to look catawampus just because of that. I did it so that it's not a complete copy of Hasbro and because hopefully on torsos that can fit tactical vests, the torso won't be so stiff and immovable. I am going to experiment a little with different kinds of articulation depending on what I'm sculpting and won't have one universal type. I want to get into collar articulation as well, I'm just limited by what materials I can use.
I personally like that with that design you can pull off a convincing hunched over look on the bike...looks pretty natural IMO...
Yes, but I didn't say "no articulation". The Mattel style ab hinge would work like a charm for what you want to achieve, but might interfere with the sculpt - depending on what it is of course.
And by "collar", I assume you mean collar bone aka pec rotation.
And by "collar", I assume you mean collar bone aka pec rotation.
Right. This is more "optional" articulation. It doesn't have to be used, it's more for my benefit since I prefer multiple partial articulation points as opposed to one full motion point. I'm trying to get a little closer to an accurate spinal arch without hurting the sculpted details.
IDW Snake Eyes "first uniform" from GI Joe Origins 4. He basically just grabbed a few things lying around to cover up his injured face.
Detail of the facial scarring.
I'm trying to decide of I should sculpt the band for the goggles directly on the headsculpt and just glue the goggles on the print or if I should try to make the band out of some thin material and make it removable.
Detail of the facial scarring.
I'm trying to decide of I should sculpt the band for the goggles directly on the headsculpt and just glue the goggles on the print or if I should try to make the band out of some thin material and make it removable.
Almost finished with my Future-Verse General Hawk. I'm not sure if the camo comes out right in the pic, but I tried Tr1er's digi-camo method but with a black base and a green and grey. I'll have to see how it looks today, I wanted to try for a darker camo, but I dunno, I'll have to take a second look at it when I go downstairs.
Looks good. I think the boots are a tad on the big side though. That's a great use for that torso.
That looks really cool Joe...I think the only part of the boots that needs changing are the feet...the upper boot looks good as is IMO...