Sorry. I was playing around based on the parts in D's pics. I would, if needed, just refer to your assembled pics.
For the price I paid, as long as I can ask questions so I don't F it up, I'm good.
M-114 Up Armored Tacticle Vehicle Turret
- Thread starter Pickelhaube
- Start date
For the price I paid, as long as I can ask questions so I don't F it up, I'm good.
Ask all you want . I really do not mind but I am pretty sure once you all get them in your hands you will not have any problems but if you do I am here for you.
I have not addressed the windows .
You guys will receive a piece of clear styrene along with a green piece of film.
These are your window glass and ballistic tint.
You will have to cut these to size. No crying it will be easy .
The clear styrene goes on first inside the frames and the tint goes on top of that afterwards.
You can use white glue or CA Gold thick gel . If you do not use the gold the clear styrene MAY CLOUD UP OR MAKE THE WIDOWS FROSTY .
IF YOU USE KICKER ON THE GOLD CA GLUE IT WILL FROST THE WINDOWS AS WELL . BE CAREFUL !!!!!!!!!!!
USING THE WHITE GLUE ( it will turn clear )IS SO MUCH SAFER BUT TAKES A LONG TIME TO SET UP.
Not counting windows there are 123 parts to the full kits.
You guys will receive a piece of clear styrene along with a green piece of film.
These are your window glass and ballistic tint.
You will have to cut these to size. No crying it will be easy .
The clear styrene goes on first inside the frames and the tint goes on top of that afterwards.
You can use white glue or CA Gold thick gel . If you do not use the gold the clear styrene MAY CLOUD UP OR MAKE THE WIDOWS FROSTY .
IF YOU USE KICKER ON THE GOLD CA GLUE IT WILL FROST THE WINDOWS AS WELL . BE CAREFUL !!!!!!!!!!!
USING THE WHITE GLUE ( it will turn clear )IS SO MUCH SAFER BUT TAKES A LONG TIME TO SET UP.
Not counting windows there are 123 parts to the full kits.
Lots of DIY stuff for this pricey kit.
Really? You do realize how many parts are in the kit? It was always advertised as a kit. Pickel can assemble everything for you and paint it up. I think that it costs the same as the kit though for that service.
Man, you Hasbro guys are spoiled, lol.
^
It is quit an extensive set, and it has to be painted, so the average collector will
be a bit overwhelmed, it seams expensive to the non customizer, but if people new what it takes to build and cast this kind of thing they would be blown away.
I wanted to build this exact kit myselfe but I know it's way easyer to buy one somebody else built and casted, kits like this to me are priceless because only a few will ever be fully assembled and painted, so now you have a Very rare vehicle that can't be purchased on eBay or anywhere else, so look at what it is your actually getting, Gold, collectors Gold ! Thanks pickle !!
Your welcome Salty !!! And very well stated .
It took Daremo a week and a half to make the molds and more than 2 1/2 weeks for me to make the prototypes .
The average modeler would take over a month to make his own HUMVEE customs .
The IBIS bumper took me over 2- 1/2 days to make @ $15 .
Would ANYBODY here work 2-1/2 days for $15 ?
Anyway the parts were fun to make and I actually enjoyed the time it took me to build them.
Some of you should have received them by now .
For you guys who have received them , how do the kits look ?
It took Daremo a week and a half to make the molds and more than 2 1/2 weeks for me to make the prototypes .
The average modeler would take over a month to make his own HUMVEE customs .
The IBIS bumper took me over 2- 1/2 days to make @ $15 .
Would ANYBODY here work 2-1/2 days for $15 ?
Anyway the parts were fun to make and I actually enjoyed the time it took me to build them.
Some of you should have received them by now .
For you guys who have received them , how do the kits look ?
Any idea when these will be shipped out yet ? I was told Monday 2 weeks ago, just wondering what the hold up is .
I got a ship notification today if that helps. I'd assume they'd all go out at the same time? Maybe not though....?
We were having problems with a couple of parts mainly the IBIS grill part. Hopefully this has been corrected. I was a little premature with the shipping notification a couple of weeks ago. Eddie was the first guy who ordered his order will be one of the first to go out if it has not already been shipped.
Believe me we want to get these out ASAP as well.
Believe me we want to get these out ASAP as well.
I didn't expect it, but it's cool to hear that shipping priority is based on when orders were placed. 
Got my kit today. It's gonna be a lot of fun putting together. Very nice stuff! Beautiful details and cast work.
I received my Up armored HUMVEE parts yesturday. They look fantastic, nice job Pickelhaube and Daremo, you hit this one out of the park. This will be my next project after I finish my Vietnam M113.
Based on your comment in the workbench thread, it'll be based on the stock color. I'm not covering up tampos. I still have to check which versions I have in which colors. I know I have tan one it'll work on and I think I have a woodland too. What I don't know is what schemes used the parts in the kit.
I still think that Berlin scheme you showed me years ago would be neat, but it's awfully intimidating.
Remember when glueing on the door skins you need to sand off the rivets and door handle first.
Glue the skin on then apply the window armor . The skins may have flattened out in processing
4 doors with 2 side mirrors w/ A/C louvers.
It may be a good idea to glue on the rocker panel on first before the skins. You need to pop off the old side mirrors.
I got a lot done with the passenger side. 24 hours so far.
Glue the skin on then apply the window armor . The skins may have flattened out in processing
4 doors with 2 side mirrors w/ A/C louvers.
It may be a good idea to glue on the rocker panel on first before the skins. You need to pop off the old side mirrors.
I got a lot done with the passenger side. 24 hours so far.
If you unscrew the four screws holding the body and chassis together, it's really easy to slice off the mushroomed peg of the mirrors on the inside of the body. 
What kind of glue do you recommend to glue these pieces to each other and then to the vehicle, Pickel?
What kind of glue do you recommend to glue these pieces to each other and then to the vehicle, Pickel?
extra thick( gel ) CA glue .
Which is the same as super glue. Regular plastic cement glue will not work on resin parts.
Which is the same as super glue. Regular plastic cement glue will not work on resin parts.
Okay. I spent a couple days cleaning off the flash and getting the finish on all the parts perfect. I soaked them in warm soapy water and scrubbed them all up with a toothbrush. Each and every single piece in anticipation of paint. Dried each piece by hand AND let them air dry for a day.
So, I took one of the smoke dispenser assemblies and decided to see how well the "thick" CA would work. It was like I used water. So I tried a second assembly except this time I lightly sanded the glueing surfaces. Same result, not adhering. I figured, maybe let it dry a bit. Two hours later, the glue is still wet between the pieces and they are sliding around like I used water.
I thought, for some insane reason, maybe it was the glue, expired or something. So I tested it on some styrene pieces. Stuck no problem.
What the heck is going on? Is CA not good for resin? Should I get some epoxy?! I'm no noob to customizing, but I've never experienced anything like this.
So, I took one of the smoke dispenser assemblies and decided to see how well the "thick" CA would work. It was like I used water. So I tried a second assembly except this time I lightly sanded the glueing surfaces. Same result, not adhering. I figured, maybe let it dry a bit. Two hours later, the glue is still wet between the pieces and they are sliding around like I used water.
I thought, for some insane reason, maybe it was the glue, expired or something. So I tested it on some styrene pieces. Stuck no problem.
What the heck is going on? Is CA not good for resin? Should I get some epoxy?! I'm no noob to customizing, but I've never experienced anything like this.
You need to use the kicker . It will set in seconds .The resin should have nothing to do with the CA glue setting up.
This is what I use.
Zap Kicker 2oz CA Glue Accelerator Spray Bottle Toys Hobbies Zappt 715 | eBay
Just got my kit today, Holly Shit !! Man this thing is Bitchen, now I need to order a few more turrets for some other projects, Excellant Work and Awesome detail on this stuff Pickelhaube!! WOW !!
Thanks Salty !!
There is the possibility that some of you may not have enough green film to finish the doors and the turret windows .
Check your kits and let me know .
Remember the film is for the door and turret windows .
If you want extra film for the front windshields it will be $5 extra plus shipping. This can go in a regular envelope so it will not be that much.
GI Eddie your film should go in the mail today.
thanks Pickel.
Spent a couple hours making mud flaps and an extra piece to mount the second wire whip antenna. Crazy how much time it takes to make such small insignificant pieces.
Painted up some of the parts w/o priming first. Big mistake.
Spent a couple hours making mud flaps and an extra piece to mount the second wire whip antenna. Crazy how much time it takes to make such small insignificant pieces.
Painted up some of the parts w/o priming first. Big mistake.
Sorry about the mix up guys. It's my fault for that one. I sent out more window materials for the doors to everyone that has received their kits today.
What kind of paints are you using, Eddie? I've never used primer on my cast parts (or washed them) and the model masters paints have always worked without any problems. I haven't painted larger pieces though. I do have to prime styrene. There's a few styrene pieces in the kit.
What kind of paints are you using, Eddie? I've never used primer on my cast parts (or washed them) and the model masters paints have always worked without any problems. I haven't painted larger pieces though. I do have to prime styrene. There's a few styrene pieces in the kit.
thanks Pickel.
Spent a couple hours making mud flaps and an extra piece to mount the second wire whip antenna. Crazy how much time it takes to make such small insignificant pieces.
Painted up some of the parts w/o priming first. Big mistake.
Just think there is over 120 pieces to these kits .
Now you can imagine what it takes to put something like this out there.
Daremo is making over a thousand parts .
Back when I got Pickels first turret, he suggested going to Home Depot for the best paint match. They scanned my Humvee for an almost perfect match. Smallest size I could order was a pint, I believe, so I'm still using that. It's latex. It held up on my older turret, but I can't recall if I primed or not.
Oh I'm no stranger to scratch building. I KNOW the amount of work you and D must've put in.
I prime everything with either Krylon plastic primer or Tamiya primer after washing in warm dish soap with a tooth brush, use the stiffest tooth brush you can find and get into all the nooks and cracks and you should be fine, after I prime I put parts under a warm light for a few days to bake off the VOC's, then paint it and repeat warm light, then clear coat, then weather after a week, it's time consuming I know but the finishes are hard as a car paint job afterwards, no chipping or pealing on doors or hatches that open and snap closed, PATIENCE and prep is the key to a great paint Finnish .
Yes by all means you need to soap wash the parts .
A primer is a must on resin parts . I use automotive paint .
You can now go to Home depot or Lowes for the paint matching.
I have matched the paint for
21st Humvee
21st Stuka
BBI Pavehawk
New BBI Blackhawk.
All almost perfect matches . Now they offer small test cans about the size of a small tomato paste can , and the price is about $3-$5
CHEAP !!!.
The trick as Salty has said is to let the paint totally cure out . Then one cured I seal everything with tester dull clear coat.
I have used a make up sponge to paint . This gets the job done but you need to apply about 2-3 coats. It is better if your sponge is wet first . Dip it in water ( purified or bottle water ) squeeze it dry then start dabbing paint.
You can also airbrush the Home depot paint . Every body says that you can use denature alcohol but I never had success with it . IT CLOGS EVERY 3 SECONDS .
So I us Windex to thin out the paint. THIS WORKS GREAT !!! JUST LIKE REGULAR PAINT !!!!
Salty what is VOC ?
A primer is a must on resin parts . I use automotive paint .
You can now go to Home depot or Lowes for the paint matching.
I have matched the paint for
21st Humvee
21st Stuka
BBI Pavehawk
New BBI Blackhawk.
All almost perfect matches . Now they offer small test cans about the size of a small tomato paste can , and the price is about $3-$5
CHEAP !!!.
The trick as Salty has said is to let the paint totally cure out . Then one cured I seal everything with tester dull clear coat.
I have used a make up sponge to paint . This gets the job done but you need to apply about 2-3 coats. It is better if your sponge is wet first . Dip it in water ( purified or bottle water ) squeeze it dry then start dabbing paint.
You can also airbrush the Home depot paint . Every body says that you can use denature alcohol but I never had success with it . IT CLOGS EVERY 3 SECONDS .
So I us Windex to thin out the paint. THIS WORKS GREAT !!! JUST LIKE REGULAR PAINT !!!!
Salty what is VOC ?